A tasty case of the 'munchies' in Amsterdam
I think it is such a shame that fellow people within my generation only know Amsterdam as the place where a certain 'herb' is legal for purchase. The 'coffee shop' lifestyle of the city is easily found but it isn't one that rules over anything more than an internet cafe back in the states. What is done in Amsterdam regarding the burning of particular plants is very miniscule in comparison to the other beauties of this city within the Netherlands.
With canals having near the amount of area as that of the streets, walking within Amsterdam is a pleasant one of bridges and waterways. The humidity level is thin but not without notice. The mornings are cool but quickly brighten up into heat filled days that make one gravitate towards the ubiquitous warm weather treat.
Arriving mid-day and stumbling upon a delightful pasty shop named Lanskroon, ice cream and sweets suddenly became a high priority on the agenda. Grabbing a scoop of some of the best pistachao ice cream outside of Sicily and a tasty chocolate filled turnover (that resembled a cookie more than a doughy French style pastry). The nutty addition of musli was crunchy and unexpected.
I returned to Lanskroon many times during my stay. Their butter croissants were better than many in Paris, having that crisp edge that I so enjoy. A typical item of Holland the "Stroopwafel" is a crunchy butter and sugar filled cookie that has many fillings, this being the fig version. Quite delicious at 8:30 in the morning.
The croissants were too great to pass up, this time going with the cinn sugar coated variation. Just as flaky as the regular only with that added level of sweetness and spice. A blueberry filled pastry (same dough as the chocolate as on day one), that was pleasingly low in overall sweetness. Sugar is always a nice way to start the day, and cheese is even better to progress it.
Being the land of Gouda, it would be a major misstep to not experience the crystal qualities of these fantastic cheeses. A pork and beef 'meatball' (as it was described) sandwich with fresh fried frites and some 2 year old Reypenaer-Boerenkaas Gouda. Many people who eat their frites in this fashion always go for the mayo condiment, instead I opted for the nutty sweet flavors of the shaved cheese to melt atop the warm frites. Quite delicious.
Another lunch time was also devoted to cheese, this time a composed plate of seasonal wonders in a lovely little place named: KEF'S
A cheese shop that also provides some small tables where a few lucky customers can have an arranged plate of professionally chosen cheeses. With bread, paired wines and a grateful owner who transformed this little lunch into a happy conversation of all things related to the world of cheese. The selections were a combination of local and French items.
1. Bouton d'oc (Holland, goat)
2. Machedoux (French, goat)
3. Sainte Maure Touraine (French, goat)
4. Emmental (Swiss, cow)
5. Remeher (Holland, cow)
6. Boereu Goudse Apleghaas (Holland, cow)
7. Bleu de Wolvega (Holland, cow)
Some like the Bouton and the Wolvega were said to be very rare, even within Holland. All were enjoyable and none seemed out of place. The fresh flavors of the starting goat's cheeses, the Touraine being a marvelous unpasturized version, the palate cleansing addition of the simple Emmental mid course and the sharp Goudas ending with a tame blue.
The little places like this are the ones that connect with me the most. Everything was so clear and basic, the cheeses were sliced, described and served by the same person, all within the basement of the store. A beautiful thing that so rarely gets to happen.
While the afternoons of cheese and frites came winding into evening, some local fare was to be had in two very different ways.
Dinner at the multi-leveled Greetje was a glimpse into the past of Amsterdam's culinary history. Using the local traditions and specific recipies, Greetje is as much a representaion of Holland as the windmill. The menu held items of strange origin but what got my attention more than anything was the accompaniments with bread.
The bread was studded with seeds and the butter was everything it should be but the second dish really stood out. It was smooth like butter but had an extremely savory quality of salt and animal. Tasting it brought images of prosciutto and pork belly. I asked and was informed that the spread was a combination of cooked onions, ground apples, spices and rendered pork fat. While butter used to be quite expensive, and lard being prevalent, the creative force of some intrigued cook created a highly addictive condiment that could easily overtake the focus from the main course.
A fantastic combination of sea and earth by way of a sea ray and duck liver terrine. Rich and highly addictive, the natural salt qualities of the firm ray balanced the dynamic depth of creamy livers. A sweet streak of beet 'oil' and a light salad of greens and herbs, accented the established terrine and gave a nice contrast to the big flavors.
Roasted filet of local lamb, potato gratin and 'lams ears' was basic but not without interest. The lams ears was a slick textured sea vegetable that could be compared to certain types of nori. A cheese named Frisian clove was used in the gratin, very close to an appenzeller, and there was a prodominate sweet aroma that come from the 'gravy' of braised garlic. Nothing to shout about but nothing to dissapoint.
Dessert was quite a gamble. The flavor of licoriche is one that I still am very particular with. I greatly dislike the polished boot smell of the black tar tenticles that so many love to stick up their teeth with. Hoping to try new things and come away delighted, I went for the series of cream desserts all flavored by licorice. Rather than the usual aromas of cheep sandals that I associate with licorice, these were cleansing and bright. The creme brulee was chilled and masterfully flavored with the natural licorice bark. The ice cream had a solid interior but because of it's shape each spoonful scraped off a new layer allowing the interior to become exposed and thus raise in temperature. Flavors that are usually unwanted were enjoyed to the fullest extent.
If my meal at Greetje was a glimpse into the old authentic ways of Amsterdam, my next outing was just as much as a focus on the region but in a much more updated way.
Rather than creating food using recipes of old, the constantly changing Marius utilizes the current findings from within the markets of Amsterdam. Marius upholds a strict selection of seasonal driven produce and farmer friendly meats. While the plates may take influences from other European countries, the area within Holland is felt and tasted thought the quality ingredients.
Olives, salami and bread welcome all to tables with checkered table cloths and a small dining full of warmth. The kitchen is run by a single head chef named Kees Elfring, who got his start over the burners within the institutional restaurant: Chez Painsse. By using a style greatly similar to the Berkley landmark, each diner is served the same progression of dishes that are created specifically for that day. With the amount of food being given, it is amazing knowing that it all comes from the hands of a single and passionate chef.
The style is one of simplified ease where nothing comes off as being anything but well prepared. Bringing many Mediterranean flavors together in a dish of rare tuna, artichokes, concassed tomatoes, grilled eggplant and blobs of strong garlic flavored aioli. Even though the season was early, the tomatoes were succulent and the eggplant had a creamy quality not usually expereinced out side of a late July day.
A light Italian based seafood risotto that thankfully contained no cheese. Distinct like the breeze of salty sea air and just as enjoyable. The aborio kernal of rice was used and gave the desired level of loose textured 'all'onda' structure. Continuing on the theme of sea flavors, the sea vegetable (just like that of Greetje) 'lamb ear' added a murky flavor of deep ocean origin. A one side seared filet of monkfish brought focus and freshness across the rice.
Roasted filet of tender veal given strength though a combinding force of fava beans and chantrelle mushrooms. The double hit of reduction sauce and pesto, spooned over in such an artistic fashion, perked up the palate with sharp herbs and smooth stock. Satisfying and yet so very basic.
Nothing short of what mama would have made, a delightfully moist slice of cake, sweet berry compote and freshly churned vanilla ice cream. The dessert just like the rest of the meal was a guidence though the diverse range of local flavors from the homey cooking of Kees Elfring. Going to the market everyday, prep-ing nearly all the meals and some times wasing dishes, Kees Elfring has created a place of simple cooking from a ruling of complicated up-keeping. Earning the title of chef though a restaurant of personal touches, Marius makes food of the moment while never breaking away form the level of commitment for honest cooking.
Amsterdam really surprised me. I went into the city knowing very little, and I happy to leave with an idea of just how much the city offers. Outside of the misinterpreted image of easy mindalteration, Amsterdam has a portion of history to be seen and tasted.
With canals having near the amount of area as that of the streets, walking within Amsterdam is a pleasant one of bridges and waterways. The humidity level is thin but not without notice. The mornings are cool but quickly brighten up into heat filled days that make one gravitate towards the ubiquitous warm weather treat.
Arriving mid-day and stumbling upon a delightful pasty shop named Lanskroon, ice cream and sweets suddenly became a high priority on the agenda. Grabbing a scoop of some of the best pistachao ice cream outside of Sicily and a tasty chocolate filled turnover (that resembled a cookie more than a doughy French style pastry). The nutty addition of musli was crunchy and unexpected.
I returned to Lanskroon many times during my stay. Their butter croissants were better than many in Paris, having that crisp edge that I so enjoy. A typical item of Holland the "Stroopwafel" is a crunchy butter and sugar filled cookie that has many fillings, this being the fig version. Quite delicious at 8:30 in the morning.
The croissants were too great to pass up, this time going with the cinn sugar coated variation. Just as flaky as the regular only with that added level of sweetness and spice. A blueberry filled pastry (same dough as the chocolate as on day one), that was pleasingly low in overall sweetness. Sugar is always a nice way to start the day, and cheese is even better to progress it.
Being the land of Gouda, it would be a major misstep to not experience the crystal qualities of these fantastic cheeses. A pork and beef 'meatball' (as it was described) sandwich with fresh fried frites and some 2 year old Reypenaer-Boerenkaas Gouda. Many people who eat their frites in this fashion always go for the mayo condiment, instead I opted for the nutty sweet flavors of the shaved cheese to melt atop the warm frites. Quite delicious.
Another lunch time was also devoted to cheese, this time a composed plate of seasonal wonders in a lovely little place named: KEF'S
A cheese shop that also provides some small tables where a few lucky customers can have an arranged plate of professionally chosen cheeses. With bread, paired wines and a grateful owner who transformed this little lunch into a happy conversation of all things related to the world of cheese. The selections were a combination of local and French items.
1. Bouton d'oc (Holland, goat)
2. Machedoux (French, goat)
3. Sainte Maure Touraine (French, goat)
4. Emmental (Swiss, cow)
5. Remeher (Holland, cow)
6. Boereu Goudse Apleghaas (Holland, cow)
7. Bleu de Wolvega (Holland, cow)
Some like the Bouton and the Wolvega were said to be very rare, even within Holland. All were enjoyable and none seemed out of place. The fresh flavors of the starting goat's cheeses, the Touraine being a marvelous unpasturized version, the palate cleansing addition of the simple Emmental mid course and the sharp Goudas ending with a tame blue.
The little places like this are the ones that connect with me the most. Everything was so clear and basic, the cheeses were sliced, described and served by the same person, all within the basement of the store. A beautiful thing that so rarely gets to happen.
While the afternoons of cheese and frites came winding into evening, some local fare was to be had in two very different ways.
Dinner at the multi-leveled Greetje was a glimpse into the past of Amsterdam's culinary history. Using the local traditions and specific recipies, Greetje is as much a representaion of Holland as the windmill. The menu held items of strange origin but what got my attention more than anything was the accompaniments with bread.
The bread was studded with seeds and the butter was everything it should be but the second dish really stood out. It was smooth like butter but had an extremely savory quality of salt and animal. Tasting it brought images of prosciutto and pork belly. I asked and was informed that the spread was a combination of cooked onions, ground apples, spices and rendered pork fat. While butter used to be quite expensive, and lard being prevalent, the creative force of some intrigued cook created a highly addictive condiment that could easily overtake the focus from the main course.
A fantastic combination of sea and earth by way of a sea ray and duck liver terrine. Rich and highly addictive, the natural salt qualities of the firm ray balanced the dynamic depth of creamy livers. A sweet streak of beet 'oil' and a light salad of greens and herbs, accented the established terrine and gave a nice contrast to the big flavors.
Roasted filet of local lamb, potato gratin and 'lams ears' was basic but not without interest. The lams ears was a slick textured sea vegetable that could be compared to certain types of nori. A cheese named Frisian clove was used in the gratin, very close to an appenzeller, and there was a prodominate sweet aroma that come from the 'gravy' of braised garlic. Nothing to shout about but nothing to dissapoint.
Dessert was quite a gamble. The flavor of licoriche is one that I still am very particular with. I greatly dislike the polished boot smell of the black tar tenticles that so many love to stick up their teeth with. Hoping to try new things and come away delighted, I went for the series of cream desserts all flavored by licorice. Rather than the usual aromas of cheep sandals that I associate with licorice, these were cleansing and bright. The creme brulee was chilled and masterfully flavored with the natural licorice bark. The ice cream had a solid interior but because of it's shape each spoonful scraped off a new layer allowing the interior to become exposed and thus raise in temperature. Flavors that are usually unwanted were enjoyed to the fullest extent.
If my meal at Greetje was a glimpse into the old authentic ways of Amsterdam, my next outing was just as much as a focus on the region but in a much more updated way.
Rather than creating food using recipes of old, the constantly changing Marius utilizes the current findings from within the markets of Amsterdam. Marius upholds a strict selection of seasonal driven produce and farmer friendly meats. While the plates may take influences from other European countries, the area within Holland is felt and tasted thought the quality ingredients.
Olives, salami and bread welcome all to tables with checkered table cloths and a small dining full of warmth. The kitchen is run by a single head chef named Kees Elfring, who got his start over the burners within the institutional restaurant: Chez Painsse. By using a style greatly similar to the Berkley landmark, each diner is served the same progression of dishes that are created specifically for that day. With the amount of food being given, it is amazing knowing that it all comes from the hands of a single and passionate chef.
The style is one of simplified ease where nothing comes off as being anything but well prepared. Bringing many Mediterranean flavors together in a dish of rare tuna, artichokes, concassed tomatoes, grilled eggplant and blobs of strong garlic flavored aioli. Even though the season was early, the tomatoes were succulent and the eggplant had a creamy quality not usually expereinced out side of a late July day.
A light Italian based seafood risotto that thankfully contained no cheese. Distinct like the breeze of salty sea air and just as enjoyable. The aborio kernal of rice was used and gave the desired level of loose textured 'all'onda' structure. Continuing on the theme of sea flavors, the sea vegetable (just like that of Greetje) 'lamb ear' added a murky flavor of deep ocean origin. A one side seared filet of monkfish brought focus and freshness across the rice.
Roasted filet of tender veal given strength though a combinding force of fava beans and chantrelle mushrooms. The double hit of reduction sauce and pesto, spooned over in such an artistic fashion, perked up the palate with sharp herbs and smooth stock. Satisfying and yet so very basic.
Nothing short of what mama would have made, a delightfully moist slice of cake, sweet berry compote and freshly churned vanilla ice cream. The dessert just like the rest of the meal was a guidence though the diverse range of local flavors from the homey cooking of Kees Elfring. Going to the market everyday, prep-ing nearly all the meals and some times wasing dishes, Kees Elfring has created a place of simple cooking from a ruling of complicated up-keeping. Earning the title of chef though a restaurant of personal touches, Marius makes food of the moment while never breaking away form the level of commitment for honest cooking.
Amsterdam really surprised me. I went into the city knowing very little, and I happy to leave with an idea of just how much the city offers. Outside of the misinterpreted image of easy mindalteration, Amsterdam has a portion of history to be seen and tasted.
posted by Bard at 8:32 AM
3 Comments:
As a concerned citizen, I do have to insist that you go to the Van Gough museum, buy a ticket with a specific entrance time, then forcibly drag yourself into one of those dirty pot-smoking hippie holes, buy a pre-rolled 3 euro hash joint, (leave the coffee shop!), go to a canal bench and smoke 1/4 of it, leave the rest for the next dirty hippie, (Whatever you do, do not smoke more than 25% of it! trust me!) and go then to the museum, or at least, just go to the museum, it is worth the price of your plane ticket. Anne Frank house, windmills, not so much. Van Gough museum, amazing! Oh and don't leave the country without eating a couple of those yummy herring sandwiches, Dutch sashimi on bread with onions!
Great to have found your blog. I too, have enjoyed many meals throughout Europe - even lived in The Nederlands for a while. Looking forward to keeping up you, my tasty traveler!
Hey Andre this is Brad from San Sebastian. How are things? Are you still in Europe? I am back in NYC and am going to stay and probably work at Momofuku ssam bar. I just wanted to see if you could Email me the pics from san seb. My email is Cbrowell1@yahoo.com I hope things are well. talk to you soon. Brad
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