Sunday, June 10, 2007

A belly full of Belgium.

While having France as a close neighbor, the country of Belgium shows an amount of influence from many facets. By understanding these similarities, Belgium has grown and created a style of living all its own.

Within the EU capital of Brussels, I was able to see the identity of Belgium but still feel the light presence of France.

One thing many do know as being highly praised from Belgium are the chocolates and the waffles. The locals only eat their waffles with a light dusting of powder sugar, but not being a local, I opted for an additional large scoop of ice cream. Studded with large chunks of dark chocolate, the ice cream was soon a melting mess atop the warm squares of the waffle. Rather than being a thin batter, like most in America, the waffles were thick patties similar to cookie dough. The finished product is a crispy edged sugar rush that has no merit towards the health of those that consume. Complete indulgence.

The smell is the luring factor of these treats. That rich butter and sugar caramelization scent just pulls all the attention. Ice cream might not be how it is usually done but it is a formula that I enjoy.

As big as Belgium is for the chocolates, I had a hard time finding waffles with well made chocolate sauce. Most were using fructose inclined squeeze bottles of 'chocolate flavor', but all the searching was not in vein. Amazing dark Belgium chocolate was transformed into a sauce that accompanied the crisp and chewy (and best) waffle of the trip.
Still on the sweet rush subject, I was happy to dine at a very French 'inspired' restaurant that still did all of the classic movements. Sauces poured table side, the cheese board and the exciting flambéed tart tatine dessert.

The hootch isn't the main reason I like this technique, its the fact of trying to eat your dessert while it is on fire. The flames erupt and slowly burn through the alcohol leaving the guest entertained and ready for warm sweets.
Another tasty item that I have little defense against are the frites shops. Not a chip and not a french fry, pomme frites are the defining deep fried potato.

There are many little stands with fresh cut potatoes and a series of heated oil stations than can fry up some great pomme frites.

Some offer a condiment of 'meat sauce' that should not be missed.
Salt, starch and fat all come together in a delicious unison that can nearly be a meal by its self (now if only there was one that used duck fat...). With eats such as these, the palate becomes quite parched, luckily, Belgium has just the needed remedy.

The beers in Belgium are among the world's greatest. Having a wide variety of deeply colored and bitter brews, there are literally hundreds to try. With the addition of corn-flakes, many beers have a pleasing level of sweetness that makes them very admirable. I wasn't much of a beer drinker before coming, but now things are a little different.
Beer, waffles and frites are enjoyed throughout Belgium, but never outshine the quality of many restaurants. The food is, again, closely related to that of France with butter thickened sauces, poached fish and knife carved vegetables. If there had to be a country that influenced another's cuisine, France is definitely not the worst.

In the highly atmospheric and completely European city of Bruges, there is a quite a classic place named Den Gouden Harynck. As horse carriages ride ride atop the cobble stones just feet from the front door, a mood of cozy elegance is created. The feelings only continue when one is situated in a colorful room of big chairs and allowed to enjoy a cocktail before their meal begins.

Menus are handed out and some crisp crackers flavored with cardamom are given to hold back the impulse of hunger.

After the order is taken, a playful amuse-bouce from the kitchen arrives in stunning fashion. A shooter half filled with a strained thickness of sweet pea topped off by a cream of white asparagus. Right next to it was a 'cannelloni' filled with lightly cooked vegetables (onion, carrots and zucchini) and a tremendously flavorful fillet of sardine topped with white asparagus foam. This gift was a welcoming to the restaurant by way of nature. The peas and asparagus were dynamic and pleasingly smooth. The little cannelloni was one bite of aromatic happiness while the sardine brought the main source of flavor.

Little warm langoustines wrapped in a 'jacket' of basil and crisp filo dough with bitter pesto and torn garden leaves. There must have been small pads of butter inside the 'jacket' because each bite was wonderfully moist. The texture of the combined crunchy filo and squishy prawn . The pesto was dense and intense but complemented the sweet sea flavors of the langoustines.

Continuing with similar flavors already experienced in the meal was lamb done two different ways. A tiny tender loin in four pieces with another type of pesto (much more herbaceous and not as striking as the last one) and reduced braising jus. A piece of braised leg over sweet carrots and a hummus style mixture of chickpeas. Both pieces of lamb were tasty and well cooked, the loin being the admirable one, but the real wonder of this dish was with the 'side salad'. Shaved and grilled asparagus with flaked pieces and foamed Parmigiano-Reggiano, all covered in a vinaigrette of black olives. Bitter, striking and salty. Many bold flavors that rounded each other with a clean finish.

Dessert was a fresh and soothing ending by way of basil ice-cream, strawberry sorbet, fresh berries and a foamed tomato and herb 'juice'. Having both ice cream and sorbet was a wonderful way of sharing the element of temperature with a difference in texture. By utilizing herbs and sweetness with slightly tart berries in simple and complicated ways, allowed for dessert to be a grand exit.

The restaurant Den Gouden Harynck is a nice way to experience the identity that fully exist within Belgium. With creative combinations that are never confusing, the food shines with flavors that don't easily tire.
Belgium might be thought of as just a little place next to France. It's geographical location only represents boarders on a map, for the country itself is full of wonders to see and taste. As much of an impact that France has had, it never overtakes the quality that makes Belgium what it is.

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

As a diabetic, may I say that the pictures now are just KILLING me. Those waffles look sublime.

The Neal's Yard pics are pretty spiffy as well.

10:22 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Is it beer-thirty yet?

Be sure to try some peanut "frit saus" and mayo next time, why don't we have french fry stands instead of only burrito stands?

Severely jealous
-trufflerob

11:08 AM  

Post a Comment

<< Home