Thursday, May 31, 2007

Scotland and her beauty...

As if walking the streets within some gothic tale of horror and mystery that has become excitingly real, Edinburgh welcomed me. The old city holds passage ways and stoned streets that would allow for multiple Vampire and Witch sightings to be within the bounds of normality. The only place in the world to be given the label as 'officially haunted' can be found below the pedestrian trampled streets of old Edinburgh. The churches are a bit darker than others from the area, the castle has a menacing look and yet the people are some of the nicest to be found in Scotland. With every twisting turn of the road, Edinburgh has something to behold. As much pleasure that can be found for the eyes, there is also a large amount to please the stomach.

Food in Edinburgh doesn't have anything to prove. There isn't a movement of people attempting to say anything besides what they already know. Pubs have the most attention within the dining culture. Not much in the obscure style of food that seems to be a current focus of many other cities worldwide. The Scottish diet is actually quite an enjoyable one. Much like that of neighboring Britain and the close cousins of Ireland, Scotland is a simple man's kind of place. With Fresh dairy, tender lambs, grass grazing beef, moist environments and eye opening berries, Scotland has a vast number of food offerings.

And all can be seen within the weekly market below the castle in Edinburgh.

Cheese makers, venison butchers, well humored farmers, smiling bakers and anyone who loves food can be found enjoying themselves in the environment of local specialties. One such was a small stand making breakfast porridge.

A warm portion of well cooked oats, a splash of farmer's cream, new season honey and a handful of magnificent raspberries grabbed my attention though every spoonful.
A second serving of the tasty mush was on my mind until I came across a huge food weakness. The pastry. Even if hunger isn't pulling at my throat, I always go for a pastry.

A 'mini' pie of tart rhubarb and a crisp bottle of Scottish apple juice was a great combo and a nice way to gain some energy for the rest of the day.
Outside of the market, there was a place named SPOON. More of a coffee shop with a daily menu, their main focus (besides the food) was on the comfort of their patrons. For some it was in the early morning espresso, or the midday sandwich, but in my case it was (obviously) the afternoon sweets.

A slice of bittersweet chocolate decadence. Fulfilling as if embraced by a close lover, the tart was a treat to slowly savor and enjoy in all its rich glory.

For dinner, the best meal I had was at a new place named BLUE. The menu was appealing to the younger crowd with multiple item combination meals, but it still took itself serious as a restaurant. The starter salad of house smoked mackerel with horseradish cream was a strong plate of flavors. The horseradish cream was a soft sting next to the salty smoke of the fish. I enjoyed the Scottish aspects of the food, slightly altered but still basic.

I always talk about how much I love the flavor of gamey lamb. The way it seems to always have appeal though it's distinct aroma makes me salivate at the slightest smell. Before the waiter was out of the kitchen I could sense what was being brought as lamb. Sauteed lamb's kidneys atop smooth rosemary potatoes and bacon. The texture of innards and organ meat are all very similar. Uniquely squishy with a distinct popping meaty chew, the kidneys reminded me of certain sausages and sweetbreads. The flavor was everything it seems to be. Dark, earthy, bitter, funky and gamey. Like a damp barnyard or the wool of a sheep, the kidneys had an aroma not easily forgotten. Stronger than any piece of lamb I have ever tasted meaning, they were right up my alley. I really had to contemplate if I in-fact enjoyed what I was eating. An organ that purifies the urine did cross my mind as I ate my way through the flavor that seemed to stain everything I touched. The potatoes were very good on their own but seemed only to give contrast to the intense kidneys. After it was all over, I look back on it in a positive way. New and different but good enough to eat again.

Finishing off the evening was an enormously successful cheese plate. I have tasted all of the offerings previously, but I was interested to see how they worked in a progression next to each other. The creamy and rich heaviness of the starting Clava brie moved into the mild Lanark Blue with wonderful synchronization. Usually the blue cheeses are the strongest and saved for the end but a piece of Isle of Mull Cheddar could not be out done. Having a tongue tickling start and a warm finish similar to whiskey, the Cheddar was strong but palate cleansing allowing for the rotation to restart. Two types of oat crackers, savory fruit chutney and some (contrasting) knobs of butter were great additions to a wonderful selection of cheeses.

The meal at BLUE was a wonderful one to have had alone. None of the flavors burned out or got tiring, the innovations were few but subtle making all the dishes enjoyable without compromising any ideals of the Scottish kitchen.

And speaking of the Scottish Kitchen, how could one go to Scotland and not eat the famous mixed innards of (sometimes numerous) animals that is thickened with dense oatmeal and fresh blood, then filled into a sheep's stomach and cooked, the one and only item know as HAGGIS? I couldn't say, because I had my fair share of many different offerings.

Rolled in a light layer of oatmeal and seared.

Traditional with Neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes)

Boiled with oatcakes.

Trendy and molded into a silly tower.

Boiled, steamed and micro-waved in a communal fashion.

And neep-less with sliced bread.
It is truly a landmark within the history of culinary creations. The meat always has a strong flavor but is never too intimidating. Some versions had more spices added than other. Their texture was soft and moist with an aroma similar to that of wet charcoal. The nutty flavors of the mixed oats were slightly woodsy, a masterly combination with the meat. The Haggis should not be seen as something to disgust. Anyone who has ever eaten a hot-dog has had far worse and more revoting a mixture of proteins than that of the haggis. In a way, it is just an oat filled sausage. And a delicious one at that.

Scotland offered a wonderful amount of culinary experiences. Food without complication but full of different elements. Exciting combinations filled with admirable flavors that will be craved in due time. Memories were created with fork and knife and a certain dish of bloody stomach oatmeal...

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