Four days in Dublin, Ireland.
A city that looks as if it has just opened itself to the rest of the world. Upbeat shopping centers and creative fashion districts connecting with an old-school European style charm has made a stroll thought the city center one to enjoy. Even though the city is expanding, it hasn't lost the Irish boldness that makes it the capital of Ireland. Dublin is famous for producing the legendary Guinness stout. Nothing has changed over the years, the pints are still full and the locals still live by it. Travelers don't have to search far to find this original source, there is at least one pub for every block with numerous taps pouring out the thick headed, smooth and bitter-sweet drink. There will always be a place for that of the original ways and traditional methods, but for some within Dublin, a creative urge is emerging and things are changing.
Dublin's dining scene is young. There is a thriving pulse that can be felt within the dining rooms of many restaurants. A flow that uses classic combinations of flavors while utilizing newer techniques. It isn't a 'deconstructed' style, nor a series of crazy scientific culinary experiments. Dublin's current top restaurants are more or less taking a fresh approach to the old style. With numerous Michelin starred restaurants and many publications in respected newspapers worldwide, it seems the efforts are becoming well received, and enjoyed.
THE WINDING STAIR.
This restaurant used to be a highly enjoyed bookstore still pays tribute to its origins. A tight walk up a twisting stairway opens into dining rooms that houses as many tables as it does bookshelves. The clever addition of the shelves and calming wooden tabletops allows all who enter to feel immediately comfortable. The kitchen has an emphasis on using local produce from area farmers without complication. By using practical applications with fresh ingredients, THE WINDING STAIR makes food that represents Ireland. From Simple grilled steaks with fragrant herb compound butters and thick cut organic chips
to an all Irish charcuterie plate that had selections ranging from Italian style salamis, Spanish Lomo, Chorizo, cured beef and cured lamb.
I noticed that many of their dishes looked similar in plating style. A side-by-side layering of vegetables and protein with bread or potatoes on every side. But as close in appearance that everything was, it didn't come of as uninspiring. The food was great and the preparations were simple, not needing anything else. The meats, especially the cured versions were rich in natural flavors, their vegetables never seemed diluted in flavor, their herbs were strong and their sweets were rich while being pleasingly balanced.
THE MERMAID CAFE
Another great meal from another farmer friendly establishment that utilized the wealth of local produce. The food was more refined but never overly complex in execution.
A calming cure of lemon and herbs transformed the fatty flesh of wild salmon into smooth slices of fishy refreshment. Baby spinach that tasted of the garden and a slightly unnecessary but completely delicious deep fried artichoke.
Lamb thymus glands, poached and gently cooked until a creamy softness similar to braised belly. Thick in texture with a soft touch of fatty richness, the sweetbreads were delicious. The same style of greens as the last dish that helped bring a herbal element to the heavy sweetbreads. Jerusalem artichokes were roasted which brought out their starchy sweetness and the addition of capers, olive and tomatoes made for a zesty balance.
The star of the day was a quickly cooked piece of fluke with pickled cucumbers, potato-fennel-chive mash and brilliant bay prawns. Flaky, with a fresh taste of the sea, the fluke was wonderful, but the prawns are what I'll remember. Tasting no more than a few hours old, they were sweet, succulent, rich and completely amazing. Tossed with a bit of brown butter, they were really more of a condiment than a focus, but they stole the show. The pickle on the cucumber was solid while never overtaking the basic flavor.
GRUEL
A bit less of a restaurant and more of a dining area, Gruel wasn't thought of any less than that of the other places. Sitting in a cramped area with disposable table covers while reading from a stationary chalkboard menu, I listened to the noise and smiled. Lively atmosphere run by two cooks and three waiters, there wasn't the least bit of pretension. The items were few but the amount of focus put into their daily changing offerings made everything one to enjoy.
Not very authentic to Irish cuisine but made using Irish ingredients, the tagliatelle was decent. Some minor flaws (The peas were a bit starchy, and the mint could have been stronger) but were made up by big chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano, fresh asparagus and loads of butter.
I also had a dish of spicy meriguz sausages over apricot couscous slathered with a harrisa yogurt.
Food that had hiccups and slight mishaps, but was enjoyable by the thought that came with each plate.
As many places that have the technical skill to back up their ideas, there were some restaurants that just couldn't come through.
BLEU
A newer places within the city. With a snazzy looking dining room and simple architecture, the restaurant looked like a new york establishment, only with an Irish beer tap at the bar. Style plays a big part in the comfort of a meal, but so does tasty food...This was a place that tried to come off as sleek and innovative but tripped and fell with every move. A plate of highly under-seasoned potatoes , scallops overdone and black pudding that was a dry tough skinned round of bloody oatmeal. Then, to grain on a peeve of mine, the garnish of micro-greens was wilted. Instead of brightening up the plate it just disgusted.
The same was to be said about the sea bass with mussels, saffron cream and new potato mash. Horribly dry fish, burnt bread crumbs, (again) 'sbuds that were (AGAIN) under-seasoned.
When in doubt use berry coulis. Looks great, usually tastes good enough and can go with anything. Bleu makes a great berry coulis. Redundant or not, it was tart on the start but finished with a deep sweetness that only actual juice can give. Good enough to order as a side serving or even as a soup course, and possibly frozen as a sherbet. It was one of the best things of the night, and when talking about a dessert sauce, that really isn't a good thing. The rest of the plate was a sugar filled attempt at lime sorbet, orange panna cotta, and lemon madelines that really didn't hit their mark.
Dublin is planting its feet in the ground of the culinary world. Restaurants like Bleu are unavoidable. They look great, they feel great but they don't taste that way. And in the end they won't be there at all. The ones that matter will be the ones that people remember. Places that follow seasonal availability of produce, use local meats and most importantly treat it with dignity and respect. For places like The Winding Stair and The Mermaid Cafe, it looks like Dublin is going to be going in a great direction. Even as followers come, they will still only be second to the ones that matter.
Dublin's dining scene is young. There is a thriving pulse that can be felt within the dining rooms of many restaurants. A flow that uses classic combinations of flavors while utilizing newer techniques. It isn't a 'deconstructed' style, nor a series of crazy scientific culinary experiments. Dublin's current top restaurants are more or less taking a fresh approach to the old style. With numerous Michelin starred restaurants and many publications in respected newspapers worldwide, it seems the efforts are becoming well received, and enjoyed.
THE WINDING STAIR.
This restaurant used to be a highly enjoyed bookstore still pays tribute to its origins. A tight walk up a twisting stairway opens into dining rooms that houses as many tables as it does bookshelves. The clever addition of the shelves and calming wooden tabletops allows all who enter to feel immediately comfortable. The kitchen has an emphasis on using local produce from area farmers without complication. By using practical applications with fresh ingredients, THE WINDING STAIR makes food that represents Ireland. From Simple grilled steaks with fragrant herb compound butters and thick cut organic chips
to an all Irish charcuterie plate that had selections ranging from Italian style salamis, Spanish Lomo, Chorizo, cured beef and cured lamb.
I noticed that many of their dishes looked similar in plating style. A side-by-side layering of vegetables and protein with bread or potatoes on every side. But as close in appearance that everything was, it didn't come of as uninspiring. The food was great and the preparations were simple, not needing anything else. The meats, especially the cured versions were rich in natural flavors, their vegetables never seemed diluted in flavor, their herbs were strong and their sweets were rich while being pleasingly balanced.
THE MERMAID CAFE
Another great meal from another farmer friendly establishment that utilized the wealth of local produce. The food was more refined but never overly complex in execution.
A calming cure of lemon and herbs transformed the fatty flesh of wild salmon into smooth slices of fishy refreshment. Baby spinach that tasted of the garden and a slightly unnecessary but completely delicious deep fried artichoke.
Lamb thymus glands, poached and gently cooked until a creamy softness similar to braised belly. Thick in texture with a soft touch of fatty richness, the sweetbreads were delicious. The same style of greens as the last dish that helped bring a herbal element to the heavy sweetbreads. Jerusalem artichokes were roasted which brought out their starchy sweetness and the addition of capers, olive and tomatoes made for a zesty balance.
The star of the day was a quickly cooked piece of fluke with pickled cucumbers, potato-fennel-chive mash and brilliant bay prawns. Flaky, with a fresh taste of the sea, the fluke was wonderful, but the prawns are what I'll remember. Tasting no more than a few hours old, they were sweet, succulent, rich and completely amazing. Tossed with a bit of brown butter, they were really more of a condiment than a focus, but they stole the show. The pickle on the cucumber was solid while never overtaking the basic flavor.
GRUEL
A bit less of a restaurant and more of a dining area, Gruel wasn't thought of any less than that of the other places. Sitting in a cramped area with disposable table covers while reading from a stationary chalkboard menu, I listened to the noise and smiled. Lively atmosphere run by two cooks and three waiters, there wasn't the least bit of pretension. The items were few but the amount of focus put into their daily changing offerings made everything one to enjoy.
Not very authentic to Irish cuisine but made using Irish ingredients, the tagliatelle was decent. Some minor flaws (The peas were a bit starchy, and the mint could have been stronger) but were made up by big chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano, fresh asparagus and loads of butter.
I also had a dish of spicy meriguz sausages over apricot couscous slathered with a harrisa yogurt.
Food that had hiccups and slight mishaps, but was enjoyable by the thought that came with each plate.
As many places that have the technical skill to back up their ideas, there were some restaurants that just couldn't come through.
BLEU
A newer places within the city. With a snazzy looking dining room and simple architecture, the restaurant looked like a new york establishment, only with an Irish beer tap at the bar. Style plays a big part in the comfort of a meal, but so does tasty food...This was a place that tried to come off as sleek and innovative but tripped and fell with every move. A plate of highly under-seasoned potatoes , scallops overdone and black pudding that was a dry tough skinned round of bloody oatmeal. Then, to grain on a peeve of mine, the garnish of micro-greens was wilted. Instead of brightening up the plate it just disgusted.
The same was to be said about the sea bass with mussels, saffron cream and new potato mash. Horribly dry fish, burnt bread crumbs, (again) 'sbuds that were (AGAIN) under-seasoned.
When in doubt use berry coulis. Looks great, usually tastes good enough and can go with anything. Bleu makes a great berry coulis. Redundant or not, it was tart on the start but finished with a deep sweetness that only actual juice can give. Good enough to order as a side serving or even as a soup course, and possibly frozen as a sherbet. It was one of the best things of the night, and when talking about a dessert sauce, that really isn't a good thing. The rest of the plate was a sugar filled attempt at lime sorbet, orange panna cotta, and lemon madelines that really didn't hit their mark.
Dublin is planting its feet in the ground of the culinary world. Restaurants like Bleu are unavoidable. They look great, they feel great but they don't taste that way. And in the end they won't be there at all. The ones that matter will be the ones that people remember. Places that follow seasonal availability of produce, use local meats and most importantly treat it with dignity and respect. For places like The Winding Stair and The Mermaid Cafe, it looks like Dublin is going to be going in a great direction. Even as followers come, they will still only be second to the ones that matter.
posted by Bard at 1:56 PM
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