Thursday, May 24, 2007

Some flavors in Glasgow

The meat pie. Savory butter enriched pie shell filled with a mystery combination of random animal pieces. Throw in a few spices to give some extra character, cover with a thin layer of more pastry and you got yourself a meat pie.

This Scottish meat pie tasted the way most gravies smell, the distinct mineral quaility was one that packed a delicious punch. The texture could have been a little less processed, not as pasty, but it made for a memorable welcome into the city of Glasgow, Scotland.

A university town that has gotten a reputation for crime and discomfort. Most of the other Scotland residence will all come down on the city of Glasgow as being 'dodgy' with people called 'crazy talkers'. There was a lot of truth to the words spoken, but I would say I enjoyed the city greatly.

The university building located atop a hill, is one of immense beauty that took my breath away many times. There is a great museum within the city's second most beautiful building. Near these two sights is a wonderful park with numerous paths to take. A city known for being gloomy and haunted, I experienced bright sunshine for my entire stay. Glasgow has a large amount of students and because of them, there is a very lively nightlife, which also means lots of restaurants.

With the meat pies aside, I wanted to taste the flavors native to Scotland. Wether it be easy to find or hard to obtain, contemporary or classic, I was in Glasgow with a desire for the delicious.

Walking within a active area known as the Westend, I came across a restaurant named 16 Byrnes Road. A cozy place with small tables in a low celling room. I started with a middle eastern influenced braised lamb shoulder set atop mild couscous with pomegranate molasses and a spoonful of eggplant (in the style of a baba ganoush). A proper braise on the lamb allowed the meat to be soft and quite nice, the pomegranate was a tart touch of sticky sweetness.

A braised pork belly with vanilla mashed potatoes and Madeira reduction. I love how much starch is incorporated into the diets of the Scots. The salsify acted as a middle ground for the rest of the plate. Pork was fatty and decent but not incredible, the masers with the added vanilla on the other hand were great. The sweet aroma of the vanilla stood out against the meaty belly of pig. The thick reduction that glossed the plate was intensely flavorful, not the lest bit bitter, and really aided to the slightly lacking qualities of the pork.

Wanting to get back to a more classic style of cooking, I had lunch at a place called sisters. Hoping for a leisurely meal to give a deeper appreciation of what Scottish cuisine is, I instead ended up slightly disappointed and board. The starter of chicken liver pate was very tasty with crumbly oat crackers, fresh greens and sweet plums, but it didn't come off as anything more than basic.

There was also a piece of Scottish lamb leg, braised (that sadly dried out the meat and left a good deal of inedible silver skin) a side of tasteless cabbage and completely uninteresting starches.

Feeling a bit saddened by the meal, I declined dessert and went for a stroll. I was hoping for a bit more excitement and I was beginning to feel a little reluctant to dive any deeper into the food of Scotland. It was then that I realized something that has always saved me in the past. A style of food that never ceases to inspire and please.
Cheese of course.

Obtaining three Scottish cheeses I began with an unpasturized brie style cheese called; Finn I was skyrocketed into a world of smiles and droopy eyes. Finally, a flavor that can only be obtained by young raw milk. The texture dripped and covered every part of my stimulated tongue. A warm breath of earth and mushrooms with rich aromas of warm cream slowly crept though my senses. Not able to control myself, I had to have more.
I went for a sheep's milk for the the second choice: Iona Cromak. Similar to a loose Tallagio but with a fuller flavor, Iona was a spectacle of cheesy goodness. A dual of textures (similar to melting ice cream at the rind and closer to spreadable butter in the middle) added to the diversity of the characteristics. Being a sheep's milk, there was a stronger flavor of lactic fruits and creamy potatoes. The washed rind only increased the level of enjoyment.
The third choice was another sheep's milk named Brocklay. Having a somewhat dry texture, similar to Italian pecorinos and certain wheels from the Pyrenees. There was a very savory flavor of salt with incredible notes of bacon and eggs, comparable to a pasta 'carbonara'.
A few slices of Tuscan Prosciutto, a piece of fruit and some crusty bread were all I needed to make the meal one one to remember.

The cheeses of Scotland really surprised me. They have all the capabilities to stand along side anything from France and Italy, and yet they aren't given nearly the attention they deserve. The little meal in the park reinstated faith in the quality of Scottish ingredients. Hoping for the best, I had my last meal in Glasgow at a place named STAVAIGIN.

The name STAVAIGIN means "to wander" in the local Gaelic language. Quite fitting a title, the food seems to be based on the classic Scottish style but 'wanders' in newer areas of preparation. Such a dish was the Duck filled Tortolloni with peppered cabbage and porcini mushrooms.

The essence of the flavors is very typical, duck with cabbage and mushrooms is a common combination, mainly because it works so well. Their pasta was flavored with a tiny pinch of saffron which really amplified the incredibly moist filling of braised duck. The cabbage was smooth and seasoned with black pepper that added a spicy earth quality. Rich mushrooms played along with the current notes of the other ingredients making this a well thought out, and highly enjoyable plate of food.

Staying a bit more typical to the Scottish fare was an expertly cooked piece of lamb saddle that held very little game while being juicy and tender. Braised fennel contained aromatic flavors of fresh vegetation while the green sauce (salsa verde) was acidic but a wonderful compliment. The potatoes were chilled with soothing parsley that made them a calming side note to the rest of the striking flavors.

Scotland and the UK has a large amount of Indian culture. With their culture comes their food and over time it become just as traditional as the meat pie. With this in mind, desert was largely composed using Indian and middle eastern flavors.

Warm pistachio lemon cake had a wonderfully fluffy texture with a striking perk of fresh lemon and butter. The mango 'gel' was similar to a panna cotta, only there was no cream. Quite smooth to the touch with a pleasing sweetness that made the warm evening feel that much better. Fresh mint and a wonderful garnish named Angel string (or Turkish floss, a middle eastern spun sugar similar to american cotton candy), was just the right touch to end this meal.

While walking among the dim light of an already set sun, I realized how great I felt. Happy in Scotland with a pleased palate and a newer understanding of what can be done with what you know. Glasgow might be looked down upon, but I'm happy to have been there and I wait for the day when I get to go back.

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