Chez-Jean, Paris

Sometimes I just have to treat myself. Being in Paris, a certain energy surges though the streets. A power that fuels the senses with desire. Wondering from one bakery to the next, from markets of fresh fruit to the butchers of precise measurements, from the listed menus that tempt with delectable configurations. Its in this variety that the notion of obtaining something 'grand' begins to fill my thoughts. While understanding the smaller cigarette stained brasseries that make up the guts of Paris, I also know there is a glamours face to this city where eating is more than a meal, it becomes and experience.

The restaurants that are classified as 'upscale' or 'high-end' are based on dining of a different manner. Certain measures towards quality are upheld though every part of the establishment. Service is usually done by multiple people, all with a high level of professionalism and finesse. Wine menus read like large books of historical accounting, with never too few an option of classic standards. Food should shine on the plate, sing with aromas and explode with massive flavors. These places are truly the best of the best. With an level of excellence such as that, a hefty price tag is standard. But, sometimes I just have to treat myself.

While not being able to afford (or secure a table) at the more famous restaurants of Paris, I found a nicely located and (relative) budget friendly one michelin star restaurant named: CHEZ-JEAN. Strong crimson colors complement the smoky colored wooden floors of the dining room that lay far from the massive celling so high above. The walls were covered in a pattern consisting of blooming flowers and flying birds that compared to the style of the 1920's art deco. The room was very comfortable with long booths and spacious tables.

While wondering about the surrounding sights, a large menu posted on a wooden board was set out for my choosing. The a la carte items were simple but technically refined while the tasting menu offered a standard progression of flavors that became too hard to resist.

An amuse bouche from a wide mouthed container filled with tart but balanced tomato 'gazpacho' began the meal. On the bottom of the dish were some tiny diced apples and barley cooked slivers of salmon. The strained thickness of the amuse was luxurious to savor.

A wonder of freshness. All the vegetables were glazed in a smooth butter that hardly touched any means of heat from cooking. The veggies were crisp but not raw, and the numerous flavors of the different items were multifariously distinct. Under the garden layers of beautiful placement was a goat cheese ravioli. The chevre filling was of a great quality, having the strong flavors of many Loire valley goat's cheese but being much younger. Clean food laid out in such a natural way that they exemplified the purity of each ingredient.

Next was a dish that aroused my palate though the constituent tumble of simple combinations. A fish tartar with some herbs and cucumbers, topped with a little quail's egg and basil oil. Such a wonder of consumption by way of the subtle salt of fish and the olive oil lubricated, refreshing vegetables. The basil was very intense, nearly too much on its own, but the addition of the yolk made a rich herbal amalgamation.

Lamb, peas, small onions and tiny red peppers, it must be spring. The peas were sweet and having the variation of individual balls and a condensed mash, I was able to incorporate the flavors with every bite. Lamb being as delicate as it is, was treated with upmost care when cooked. A tender pink color and a bright taste of high fields and fresh meadows was present in this lovely, loin cut of young lamb. A dish of straightforward flavors that didn't break any rules, but followed the proper style of simplicity.

Moving away from the savory items, and into the sweet, with a very interesting combination of fruit and spice. Succulent strawberries created a thick juice where individual berries and numerous nuts floated. This would have been a graceful setup for the last dessert but the berries were flavored with cayenne pepper. The sweetness was strong but soon gave way to a tart and fiery sensation from the pepper. Nuts and a small scoop of chantilly cream calmed the sharpness and brought out more fruit flavors from the berries. This unexpected flavor was one to ponder and in the end, as different as it was, tasted thoughtfully layered.

Nothing strange about this grand ending to the meal. A sweet milk chocolate syrup streaked the plate, while dark chocolate created the layers. In between the chocolate of the tower was a fluffy vanilla spiked gobbet of creme fraiche and a mixture of citrus fruits and sweet currants. With concentrated levels of decadence in a small servings, this dessert was proper in size and massive in taste.

Just like the amuse bouche, Petit fours are another standard at a restaurant of this level. Having a choice of many house made treats, I opted for just a small taste by way of caramel covered almonds, a chocolate 'truffle' and a square of citrus cake. A series of one bite satisfactions with bitter espresso concluded this meal and sent me to walk the street of Paris with a gracious level of fulfillment.
Chez-Jean gave a great experience through a wonderful meal. While being just another contender in a city of fine restaurants, Chez-Jean firmly holds their position among the ranks of the best. Paris always amazes all who visit, and though the food of the simple or the sophisticated, that amount of astonishment will never be lost. It really feels go to treat myself, because Paris allows that I should.