Jean-Georges, New York
What can a name represent? More than just the face of an individual, a name can bring up feelings towards a much larger emotional significance. A name also has the power to symbolize locations for what they stand for. To speak of Picasso, Dylan, Kubrick or Kerouac, can embody a time period, a place or a piece of history, all in a few letters. A certain amount of fame is involved but we all know names of people that stand out as being influential, meaningful or significant.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten is a name but more importantly it is a person who has created an empire of well received restaurants that produce food found (primarily) in the city of New York. Jean-Georges (the person) is known for creating a style of cuisine that combines elemental ingredients from Asia and Italy with the technique and style of the French. All of the name associated restaurants delight consumers with their explosive flavors but Jean-Georges (the restaurant) seems to stand out among the best.
With all the combined praise and collected stars, Jean-Georges is quite a well known place, among New Yorkers and the rest of the food interested country. I don't know if it is done out of concern for the ones who can't readily budget $150+ (for food alone) during dinner, but there is an incredible two course lunch option for $28 with each additional plate at only $12 extra. Three michelin stared food and service for under $50 dollars is quite unheard of, but it does happen.
The price is besides the point, Jean-Georges is an experience. Walking around Columbus Circle outside Central Park with excited anticipation of the thought that I was actually going to be able to finally partake in this classic New York destination.
Reservations were at high noon for the main dining room. The attentive front house staff was quick at seating the numerous small groups at their designated tables, I felt lucky to have one with a view of Central Park and (with a slight turn of the head) the kitchen. This style of dining to me is one to remember. I waited before opening the menu. Instead I was looking all around, feeling the petals of the table flowers, noticing how great the dim lights added hue the the warm room. There was a smell of comfort, partly by the fragrance of vast amounts of young plants but also from the aromatic essence of food trickling in by way of the kitchen.
My nerves started to calm as I fully accepted the reality of the situation. The menu listed nearly twenty choices, many being Jean-Georges classics. The wine list was extensive but my attention was pulled towards the series of house made sodas. As my orders were taken, mini french rolls were offered with sweet Vermont butter.
"Bread, butter Lemon-Thyme Soda"
The Lemon-Thyme soda was refreshing, herbaceous and (obviously) sweet but wonderfully satisfying.
"Amuse-Bouche"
A little gift from the kitchen consisting of (from right to left): Wild salmon with herring caviar atop garlic toast. Parsley, fennel and jalapeno "shooter". Shaved Beaufort cheese with blood orange and tarragon. Being a lover of cheese I was immediately taken by not only the use of Beaufort cheese but also its combination with the citrus. I truly believe that the world of cheese should not be limited to nuts and dried fruit. The citrus and tarragon worked together in taming the rich spice of the Beaufort which, being shaved, slowly dissolved on the tongue. The shooter came in waves, the parsley was unmistakable and the fennel gave body with a solid aroma of vegetation which was quickly followed by the slight sting of spice that tickled at the end. It was all washed over by the smallest amount of lime syrup, hidden at the bottom of the cup as a separate flavor. Where the shooter was a wonder of layered flavors, the salmon was a mouthful of warm amalgamation. Crunchy and yet delicate, full of umami with just a hint of garlic.
"Bluefin Tuna ribbons, avocado, spicy radish, ginger marinade"
This was fun, bright and exciting. Amazingly fresh tuna which had a firm but silky texture. The avocado wasn't processed to a fine consistency, instead it retained a chunky form that allowed it to stand out as its own element. The ginger was spiked with a subtle amount of vinegar which gave an interesting sweetness but was tamed by the thin slices of earthy radishes. It combined elements of pasta with the flavors of sushi without coming off as silly, instead there was a creative use of originality with spot on flavor.
"Cherry-yuzu soda"
Before the next dish, I ordered another splendid soda. Cheery-Yuzu. Deep and concentrated with a balanced level of fruit.
"Foie gras brule, rhubarb juice, pineapple "raisins' and sichuan peppercorn"
The rhubarb 'juice' was poured table side, releasing a stimulating perfume that caused many smiles. The foie was a fairly thick slice of terrine, covered with a glassy shell of burnt sugar. This was incredibly rich and (I never thought I would be saying this about foie gras), a bit too much. It was like eating a soup of rendered candy only really, really good candy. The traditional touch of toasted brioche was a nice accompaniment to cut though all the intense sugar filled richness. As large as it was, it was still a plate of tremendous foie gras that was enjoyed to the very heart-stopping, diabetes inducing, teeth shaking bite.
"Prawns, herb ravioli, Gruyere broth and green chili"
After the shock of a dish that the foie was, the prawns offered a lesson in refinement. Simple egg yolk pasta, rolled thin, encasing a haphazard series of herbs warm from the poach that seduced with a flavor of spring. Gruyere broth was nutty and majestic, adding lubrication to the pasta and depth to the rest of the dish. The foam was an explosion of jalapeano that never out-shined the delicate flavor of the steamed prawns. The grill would have been nice and even a pan sear would have added a different texture, but they would have been too much for all the other accompaniments. The steaming technique is as gentile to the flesh as it is the flavor.
"Smoked squab a l'orange, asian pear, candied tamarind"
'A L'ORANGE?' I thought while using a questioning look of concern. The classic and classically overdone 'duck a l'orange' has reached a state of comedic misuse within the culinary world. It was in fact this reason why I wanted the dish. Rather than a gummy overcooked duck covered in a Sunny Delight bitter slime sauce, I was given magical food from a kitchen of complete confidence and incredible skill. The quail was the best I have ever had. The quality of the flesh was superb, chewy, tender and soft with a light smoke scent that allowed for the wild flavor of the bird to stand out. . The reduction sauce came off as more of a sweet tangerine than a sour orange. Tamarind popped with piquancy and the asian pear worked as a middle ground though all the candied layers. I always feel strange when eating with my hand in an establishment of this regard, but I figured all who saw my plate of skinned bones would take it as a compliment...
"Cheese cart"
The classic cheese cart in full effect. A variety from all categories of the cheese world. Many favorites and many new faces so for this decision I went with the latter. Remembering desert, I opted for just two selections.
A sheep's milk cheese called Tome Percee coming from the Auvergne region of France and a domestic goat's milk cheese called Coupole from Vermont.
The goat was smooth and lightly chalky in texture with a touch less citrus flavor than the famous Loire Valley goat cheeses. The sheep had a pleasing salt quality to it that balanced the robust vegetable element of the rind. Both were served next to a mix fruit chutney, raw walnuts and freshly warmed slices of cranberry walnut bread.
"Citrus dessert: Lime curd, dehydrated grapefruit, kaffir lime syrup, lemon grass ice cream and Earl grey gelee, nut praline, chocolate-chibust-lemon-curd-tart"
Jean Georges composes their desserts based upon themes of flavor. The citrus plate was highly enjoyable, multiple elements of tart and sour without any hiccups. The tart shell of chocolate complemented the lemon curd held within. I thought the earl gray gelee brought a bittersweet element into the mix. Great finish.
"Petit fours"
Petit fours have always been the things that usually cause heavy breathing and sweaty palms because of their usual richness. I know I wasn't hungry but it is nearly impossible to turn away from delights so magnificent as these. Macaroons (Pistachio, Chocolate and Vanilla) represented their flavor profile with complete clarity. The Marshmallows (Grapefruit, Vanilla and Coffee) were refreshing soft sweet and incredibly light. The chocolates (Licorice, Mint, Cinnamon and Earl grey tea) had a light ganache that encased incredible concentration of flavors (the cinnamon and licorice were outstanding).
The service was top notch and they were able to answer any questions I happened to have. Water was efficiently refilled, bread was always at hand and they were kind enough to offer a tour of the kitchen. I was given a walkthrough by the chef de cuisine: Mark Lapico. He gave a generous 20 minutes of his time showing me all the facilities as well as the multiple floors of prep and desert space. Jean Georges Vongcherticen was in house shaking hands, expediting and overseeing his name sake. When your name is your business, your business becomes your life. Jean Georges Vongcherticen should be happy with what he has created, I know I am.
This meal was something that will always be remembered. Creative but never overcomplicated with ingredients, the level of control and sheer brilliance coming from the kitchen and Jean Georges himself were magnificent. There are names that represent more than just a face. Sometimes they can represent euphoria.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten is a name but more importantly it is a person who has created an empire of well received restaurants that produce food found (primarily) in the city of New York. Jean-Georges (the person) is known for creating a style of cuisine that combines elemental ingredients from Asia and Italy with the technique and style of the French. All of the name associated restaurants delight consumers with their explosive flavors but Jean-Georges (the restaurant) seems to stand out among the best.
With all the combined praise and collected stars, Jean-Georges is quite a well known place, among New Yorkers and the rest of the food interested country. I don't know if it is done out of concern for the ones who can't readily budget $150+ (for food alone) during dinner, but there is an incredible two course lunch option for $28 with each additional plate at only $12 extra. Three michelin stared food and service for under $50 dollars is quite unheard of, but it does happen.
The price is besides the point, Jean-Georges is an experience. Walking around Columbus Circle outside Central Park with excited anticipation of the thought that I was actually going to be able to finally partake in this classic New York destination.
Reservations were at high noon for the main dining room. The attentive front house staff was quick at seating the numerous small groups at their designated tables, I felt lucky to have one with a view of Central Park and (with a slight turn of the head) the kitchen. This style of dining to me is one to remember. I waited before opening the menu. Instead I was looking all around, feeling the petals of the table flowers, noticing how great the dim lights added hue the the warm room. There was a smell of comfort, partly by the fragrance of vast amounts of young plants but also from the aromatic essence of food trickling in by way of the kitchen.
My nerves started to calm as I fully accepted the reality of the situation. The menu listed nearly twenty choices, many being Jean-Georges classics. The wine list was extensive but my attention was pulled towards the series of house made sodas. As my orders were taken, mini french rolls were offered with sweet Vermont butter.
"Bread, butter Lemon-Thyme Soda"
The Lemon-Thyme soda was refreshing, herbaceous and (obviously) sweet but wonderfully satisfying.
"Amuse-Bouche"
A little gift from the kitchen consisting of (from right to left): Wild salmon with herring caviar atop garlic toast. Parsley, fennel and jalapeno "shooter". Shaved Beaufort cheese with blood orange and tarragon. Being a lover of cheese I was immediately taken by not only the use of Beaufort cheese but also its combination with the citrus. I truly believe that the world of cheese should not be limited to nuts and dried fruit. The citrus and tarragon worked together in taming the rich spice of the Beaufort which, being shaved, slowly dissolved on the tongue. The shooter came in waves, the parsley was unmistakable and the fennel gave body with a solid aroma of vegetation which was quickly followed by the slight sting of spice that tickled at the end. It was all washed over by the smallest amount of lime syrup, hidden at the bottom of the cup as a separate flavor. Where the shooter was a wonder of layered flavors, the salmon was a mouthful of warm amalgamation. Crunchy and yet delicate, full of umami with just a hint of garlic.
"Bluefin Tuna ribbons, avocado, spicy radish, ginger marinade"
This was fun, bright and exciting. Amazingly fresh tuna which had a firm but silky texture. The avocado wasn't processed to a fine consistency, instead it retained a chunky form that allowed it to stand out as its own element. The ginger was spiked with a subtle amount of vinegar which gave an interesting sweetness but was tamed by the thin slices of earthy radishes. It combined elements of pasta with the flavors of sushi without coming off as silly, instead there was a creative use of originality with spot on flavor.
"Cherry-yuzu soda"
Before the next dish, I ordered another splendid soda. Cheery-Yuzu. Deep and concentrated with a balanced level of fruit.
"Foie gras brule, rhubarb juice, pineapple "raisins' and sichuan peppercorn"
The rhubarb 'juice' was poured table side, releasing a stimulating perfume that caused many smiles. The foie was a fairly thick slice of terrine, covered with a glassy shell of burnt sugar. This was incredibly rich and (I never thought I would be saying this about foie gras), a bit too much. It was like eating a soup of rendered candy only really, really good candy. The traditional touch of toasted brioche was a nice accompaniment to cut though all the intense sugar filled richness. As large as it was, it was still a plate of tremendous foie gras that was enjoyed to the very heart-stopping, diabetes inducing, teeth shaking bite.
"Prawns, herb ravioli, Gruyere broth and green chili"
After the shock of a dish that the foie was, the prawns offered a lesson in refinement. Simple egg yolk pasta, rolled thin, encasing a haphazard series of herbs warm from the poach that seduced with a flavor of spring. Gruyere broth was nutty and majestic, adding lubrication to the pasta and depth to the rest of the dish. The foam was an explosion of jalapeano that never out-shined the delicate flavor of the steamed prawns. The grill would have been nice and even a pan sear would have added a different texture, but they would have been too much for all the other accompaniments. The steaming technique is as gentile to the flesh as it is the flavor.
"Smoked squab a l'orange, asian pear, candied tamarind"
'A L'ORANGE?' I thought while using a questioning look of concern. The classic and classically overdone 'duck a l'orange' has reached a state of comedic misuse within the culinary world. It was in fact this reason why I wanted the dish. Rather than a gummy overcooked duck covered in a Sunny Delight bitter slime sauce, I was given magical food from a kitchen of complete confidence and incredible skill. The quail was the best I have ever had. The quality of the flesh was superb, chewy, tender and soft with a light smoke scent that allowed for the wild flavor of the bird to stand out. . The reduction sauce came off as more of a sweet tangerine than a sour orange. Tamarind popped with piquancy and the asian pear worked as a middle ground though all the candied layers. I always feel strange when eating with my hand in an establishment of this regard, but I figured all who saw my plate of skinned bones would take it as a compliment...
"Cheese cart"
The classic cheese cart in full effect. A variety from all categories of the cheese world. Many favorites and many new faces so for this decision I went with the latter. Remembering desert, I opted for just two selections.
A sheep's milk cheese called Tome Percee coming from the Auvergne region of France and a domestic goat's milk cheese called Coupole from Vermont.
The goat was smooth and lightly chalky in texture with a touch less citrus flavor than the famous Loire Valley goat cheeses. The sheep had a pleasing salt quality to it that balanced the robust vegetable element of the rind. Both were served next to a mix fruit chutney, raw walnuts and freshly warmed slices of cranberry walnut bread.
"Citrus dessert: Lime curd, dehydrated grapefruit, kaffir lime syrup, lemon grass ice cream and Earl grey gelee, nut praline, chocolate-chibust-lemon-curd-tart"
Jean Georges composes their desserts based upon themes of flavor. The citrus plate was highly enjoyable, multiple elements of tart and sour without any hiccups. The tart shell of chocolate complemented the lemon curd held within. I thought the earl gray gelee brought a bittersweet element into the mix. Great finish.
"Petit fours"
Petit fours have always been the things that usually cause heavy breathing and sweaty palms because of their usual richness. I know I wasn't hungry but it is nearly impossible to turn away from delights so magnificent as these. Macaroons (Pistachio, Chocolate and Vanilla) represented their flavor profile with complete clarity. The Marshmallows (Grapefruit, Vanilla and Coffee) were refreshing soft sweet and incredibly light. The chocolates (Licorice, Mint, Cinnamon and Earl grey tea) had a light ganache that encased incredible concentration of flavors (the cinnamon and licorice were outstanding).
The service was top notch and they were able to answer any questions I happened to have. Water was efficiently refilled, bread was always at hand and they were kind enough to offer a tour of the kitchen. I was given a walkthrough by the chef de cuisine: Mark Lapico. He gave a generous 20 minutes of his time showing me all the facilities as well as the multiple floors of prep and desert space. Jean Georges Vongcherticen was in house shaking hands, expediting and overseeing his name sake. When your name is your business, your business becomes your life. Jean Georges Vongcherticen should be happy with what he has created, I know I am.
This meal was something that will always be remembered. Creative but never overcomplicated with ingredients, the level of control and sheer brilliance coming from the kitchen and Jean Georges himself were magnificent. There are names that represent more than just a face. Sometimes they can represent euphoria.
posted by Bard at 9:02 AM
2 Comments:
Terrific review, I enjoyed reading it. I haven't been to JG recently, but it's one of my absolute favorites in NYC, and I'm glad to see the restaurant isn't resting on its laurels after receiving its Michelin 3* and NY Times 4* ratings fairly recently. None of the dishes you had were even on the menu when I had my last meal there. It looks like JG is walking a delicate balance between classical French and avant-garde cuisine with continued aplomb and flair, something its rivals in NYC are either uninterested or incapable of doing.
Oh, and I love those sodas as well. =)
do they offer hot pockets? ur27
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