Pintxos for all, finally: San Sebastián!

Its all in that first step off the train. Right when a foot touches the shaded concrete platform of the small railway station. The immediate sensation of the situation is felt with such intensity, the eyes pulsate with joy. In that moment of collection, where one stands is no longer the country of France but across the sudden sun drenched boarder of Spain. Perceiving this place to be more than just a crossed boarder on the map, more than just from France into Spain, this is neither one nor the other for this is the Basque country.

This magnificent area of the world with bright green hills that emerge into rock laden mountains, and farmers filling every area of their land with potential growth. The Basque country isn't just an extension of Spain, the people of the area speak their own language and have a mind set uniquely their own. Even with the rocky political situation, the Basque area is immensely beautiful and highly welcoming. Just a few minutes into the area, the small sea side town of San Sebastián is the first and (my) final destination of the trip.

With the sun hot over head, I follow the path of people closer towards the serenading sounds of the sea. But there is something more to this city to experience than just warm beaches and lovely sun-rays. Greater than any attraction, the food scene of this tiny Basque city is one of the greatest in the worlds and its should be found, experienced and digested with immediate attention.

Throughout Spain these little morsels of pre-dinner bites are known as tapas but in San Sebastián they are called Pintxos. Going from bar to bar, ordering drinks and eating these little tastes become more than addictive, they become an obsession. While some common combinations of grilled chorizo can be found, there are also some innovative creations unique to certain bars.

The traditional french 'brandade' spread of salt cod is given a new vision within a coffee cup, looking like the foam of a similar cappuccino.

The ease of quickly ordering a small piece of lightly seared beef is greatly appreciated when that early evening hunger starts to distract.

Some plates are larger than others, and a nice mound of braised beef chuck with a creamy sauce of herbs easily rounded out an evenings selection.

Besides the delicious local wines to choose from, there is an un-carbonated cider than many people drink with their selections. A buttery and fresh crab meat tart was washed down in a fizzy fashion.

A tart and cool plate of creamy boiled octopus was tender and easily consumed in the mid-afternoon heat.

Fried shrimp drizzled with a sweet honey style sesame covered syrup were high in quality and quickly consumed.

Some things are raw at the bar and once ordered are then cooked on the spot. Briny and tastefully chewy tiny calamari with a garlic herb oil was something that could only have been good if made fresh.

Grilled quail was given a home in a 'nest' of some fried rice noodles while a slice of cured duck breast gave company.

Some of the more elaborate items are the ones that come off of the hot or 'caliente' part of the menu. Mini blood sausages and red peppers in a sauce of creamy potato was vibrant and deeply flavored.

More blood sausage and the unmistakable jamon Iberico with some dark mushrooms that tasted meaty enough to stand along side the ham.

Anchovies, mixed vegetable tortilla, jamon filled croquette and a gritty sack of roe were all delicious in their differences.
There are so many styles and types of food to try, but I would have to say my favorite part is the amount of foie gras that can be ordered for less than 4 euro. I always felt the French had the most foie world wide, but here in San Sebastián the fatty liver is widely available and in so many different forms.

A slice of terrine with marbled jamon, peppers and sardine was a magical bite of earth, pig and sea.

Many places had little puff pastries filled with different offerings. Lucky to find some that had big slaps of rich foie gras. Also were small terrine cuts of foie with strawberries, mango and membrillo, as well as lomo, Valdeon blue cheese and cured anchovies.

Similar to the puff pastry foie was this crisp pastry covered fried foie gras. Accompanying it was a smear of apples and a drizzle of deeply sweet saba-tasting sauce.

Again, with some bacalo and cheese filled croquettes,was more foie. This time simply seared and placed on some bread. Fatty, drippy and so delicious.
The plancha is a wonderful piece of cooking technology and its genius can be tasted though the crisp sear on a nice piece of duck liver. A common condiment throughout the pintxos bars within San Sebastian is a thin apple sauce that offsets the bold flavors of the richer dishes. With some foie this dish could have been taken as a desert.

It was amazing to see how late the Basque people stayed out eating. The pintxos crawl could start at 6 or 7 and wind up around 9:30 where dinner would soon follow. Some nights I never made it to dinner, Pintxos were all I needed. After just a few hours in San Sebastian a certain atmosphere could be felt. It was a feeling of calm, a satisfaction of the given situation, a simple acceptance of one's own life. The sun, the sand, the pintxos, its all part of the city and when things as simple as these are the only concerns, time doesn't seem to play a role.


The mornings after such a food frenzy night were recapped over a cup of cafe con leche and a sticky sweet pastry. In this city there were many different types of morning haze for the fellow travelers, the foggy and headache ridden ones from a night of heavy drinking, the sore skin and tired muscles from the long sun stays, and then the kind where one has to roll them-self out of bead from a night of multiple pintxos. I don't know if a hang over from food consumption is something to admire but, I couldn't think of a better city where it is more appropriate.