Sugar rushed and calorie filled in Paris

Paris is a big city with a large amount of ground to cover. Making sure the body has enough energy to run off of is very important. The metal health and physical vitality should always be in tip top shape for the long walks and leisurely strolls. While preparing for the countless treaded kilometers, a few daily bites of 'refueling' should be taken into consideration.

The best time of day to begin collecting calories for the journey is at the start with breakfast. A log shaped brioche filled with chocolate is always good for replenishing the bodies lost momentum from sleep.

Sometime breakfast isn't enough, and a second helping becomes necessary. A sweet and sticky raisin roll (and some bread for later) help hold one over until the time for lunch.

The classic quick and delicious fix at the start of the day is always a pain au chocolate. France and the city of Paris do them with incredible expertise and become such a desired item, one day is not enough to satisfy.

Obtaining the crispy edged, multi-layered, lightness of a pastry all rapped over a pair of sweet chocolate bars, is so much more than mere consumption, it's brain food.

literature and fat calories is a sure bet for a healthy body, productive mind and content soul.

After the joy of butter from the Pain au Chocolat, tarts become the only reasonable choice for accurate upholding of ones physique. A rich lemon curd filled into a crisp butter crust is tongue twistingly tart and stomach soothingly silky.

The great layout of the city allows for a 'patisserie' or 'boulangerie' shop to always be within the area of where ever one may be walking. Its also wise to grab something to fight the first of the morning hunger (such as another culinary piece of perfection utilizing the genius creation of pate feuilletee and chocolate)...

...as well as for that pre-lunch period where just a small taste is all thats needed (more chocolate and brioche dough seems to be an appropriate pick-me-up.)
Morning of breakfast and second breakfast are quite important times for the progression of high sugar levels in the blood, but another unforgettable piece of the day for sweet fixes comes after lunch and before supper (which is before dinner), at a time that can only be considered a 'snack-attack'.

Citrus in tart form is more than delicious, it's essential. This was an orange flavored curd, which wasn't as sweet as some of the lemon tarts of pervious, but just as refreshing. Crunchy tart crust was firm but didn't break apart in a mess making fashion. Two little madelines were thrown in, mainly to assure the proper amount of butter was going to be incorporated into the bodily system. Too little could have meant disaster later down the road.

The afternoon treats tend to be a touch more refined than those found in the morning. A 'Paris Brest' is a pate a choux pasty in the shape of a bicycle wheel filled with egg yolk enhanced pasty cream and covered with almonds. Such a delectable delight, a tasty treat, such as this should be savored with a dark espresso and a seat. If eating a Paris Brest with company make sure all have their own individual piece, for sharing is a humorous idea that can turn friends into enemies very quickly.

Chocolate is usually best saved for the desserts to end the days but when the craving calls, its very rude not to answer. Rather than finding a sliced piece of icing covered cake, little individual rounds of baked batter named 'Quatre Quart au Chocolat' are available. A type of dense pound cake that doesn't need the lubrication of chilled milk for the level of dark chocolate and fresh butter catapult this treat into the relm of euphoria.

Finding an elaborate multi-component chocolate mousse tart was like obtaining precious treasure. Hard pasty curst with a soft cushion of chocolate cake covered by a thick layer of light mousse, all topped with a shiny coating of dark ganache. An epic undertaking of chocolate filled decadence.

Mille-feuille, the classic mid day sugar high looks just as great as it tastes. The 'thousand layers' as it indicates, might not realistically add up but the tremendously crunchy layers that shatter into hundreds of rich shards fall atop the layers of thick pasty cream, where utensils become a necessity.

When traveled distances really start to give the shakes and strength seems to be an unobtainable thought, the essential remedy can always be found in the form of a cute cookie. Macaroons: sweet and so delightful with a thin interior of butter-cream offsetting the initial crunch of exterior baked egg whites. Chocolate and pistachio being great flavors for macaroons are to be savored at a pace that allows for contemplation, because when eating wonders such as these the world suddenly seems to be such a complacent place.
It would be a sham to go hungry in between meal in Paris. Luckily every street corner and major intersection has numerous places where the body can be re-vamped and get a kick start. Paris, a city of love reinterpreted in the form of sweet treats that should be desired, found, and consumed with a smile, for that fast heart beat isn't from sugar, its love.

Chez-Jean, Paris

Sometimes I just have to treat myself. Being in Paris, a certain energy surges though the streets. A power that fuels the senses with desire. Wondering from one bakery to the next, from markets of fresh fruit to the butchers of precise measurements, from the listed menus that tempt with delectable configurations. Its in this variety that the notion of obtaining something 'grand' begins to fill my thoughts. While understanding the smaller cigarette stained brasseries that make up the guts of Paris, I also know there is a glamours face to this city where eating is more than a meal, it becomes and experience.

The restaurants that are classified as 'upscale' or 'high-end' are based on dining of a different manner. Certain measures towards quality are upheld though every part of the establishment. Service is usually done by multiple people, all with a high level of professionalism and finesse. Wine menus read like large books of historical accounting, with never too few an option of classic standards. Food should shine on the plate, sing with aromas and explode with massive flavors. These places are truly the best of the best. With an level of excellence such as that, a hefty price tag is standard. But, sometimes I just have to treat myself.

While not being able to afford (or secure a table) at the more famous restaurants of Paris, I found a nicely located and (relative) budget friendly one michelin star restaurant named: CHEZ-JEAN. Strong crimson colors complement the smoky colored wooden floors of the dining room that lay far from the massive celling so high above. The walls were covered in a pattern consisting of blooming flowers and flying birds that compared to the style of the 1920's art deco. The room was very comfortable with long booths and spacious tables.

While wondering about the surrounding sights, a large menu posted on a wooden board was set out for my choosing. The a la carte items were simple but technically refined while the tasting menu offered a standard progression of flavors that became too hard to resist.

An amuse bouche from a wide mouthed container filled with tart but balanced tomato 'gazpacho' began the meal. On the bottom of the dish were some tiny diced apples and barley cooked slivers of salmon. The strained thickness of the amuse was luxurious to savor.

A wonder of freshness. All the vegetables were glazed in a smooth butter that hardly touched any means of heat from cooking. The veggies were crisp but not raw, and the numerous flavors of the different items were multifariously distinct. Under the garden layers of beautiful placement was a goat cheese ravioli. The chevre filling was of a great quality, having the strong flavors of many Loire valley goat's cheese but being much younger. Clean food laid out in such a natural way that they exemplified the purity of each ingredient.

Next was a dish that aroused my palate though the constituent tumble of simple combinations. A fish tartar with some herbs and cucumbers, topped with a little quail's egg and basil oil. Such a wonder of consumption by way of the subtle salt of fish and the olive oil lubricated, refreshing vegetables. The basil was very intense, nearly too much on its own, but the addition of the yolk made a rich herbal amalgamation.

Lamb, peas, small onions and tiny red peppers, it must be spring. The peas were sweet and having the variation of individual balls and a condensed mash, I was able to incorporate the flavors with every bite. Lamb being as delicate as it is, was treated with upmost care when cooked. A tender pink color and a bright taste of high fields and fresh meadows was present in this lovely, loin cut of young lamb. A dish of straightforward flavors that didn't break any rules, but followed the proper style of simplicity.

Moving away from the savory items, and into the sweet, with a very interesting combination of fruit and spice. Succulent strawberries created a thick juice where individual berries and numerous nuts floated. This would have been a graceful setup for the last dessert but the berries were flavored with cayenne pepper. The sweetness was strong but soon gave way to a tart and fiery sensation from the pepper. Nuts and a small scoop of chantilly cream calmed the sharpness and brought out more fruit flavors from the berries. This unexpected flavor was one to ponder and in the end, as different as it was, tasted thoughtfully layered.

Nothing strange about this grand ending to the meal. A sweet milk chocolate syrup streaked the plate, while dark chocolate created the layers. In between the chocolate of the tower was a fluffy vanilla spiked gobbet of creme fraiche and a mixture of citrus fruits and sweet currants. With concentrated levels of decadence in a small servings, this dessert was proper in size and massive in taste.

Just like the amuse bouche, Petit fours are another standard at a restaurant of this level. Having a choice of many house made treats, I opted for just a small taste by way of caramel covered almonds, a chocolate 'truffle' and a square of citrus cake. A series of one bite satisfactions with bitter espresso concluded this meal and sent me to walk the street of Paris with a gracious level of fulfillment.
Chez-Jean gave a great experience through a wonderful meal. While being just another contender in a city of fine restaurants, Chez-Jean firmly holds their position among the ranks of the best. Paris always amazes all who visit, and though the food of the simple or the sophisticated, that amount of astonishment will never be lost. It really feels go to treat myself, because Paris allows that I should.

BItter Tastes: Observations relating to culinary peeves, gastronomic annoyances and any other amount of aroused anger within the current world of food

#1 Camembert cheese and pasteurization.

I recently read an article in the New York Times, http://www.nytimes.com/2007/06/20/dining/20chee.html?ref=dining, that discussed the possibility of increasing the amount of pasteurized versions of the French cheese, Camembert. This should be a major concern to anyone who enjoys food and the traditions that come with it. Camembert is known world wide as a marvelous cheese. It has been classified with the French AOC label (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) , making it nationally recognized as a specific piece of cultural importance. The AOC has been designed only for cheeses that are of an upmost quality coming from a specific place and following exact recipes. AOC Camembert is currently a cheese made from raw milk. Some farms want to keep the AOC designation while using milk that has been heat treated.

This major change in the cheese making process is so drastically different, that the thought of keeping the AOC is absurd. By heating and cooking the milk in the early stages of cheese making, useful bacteria, pleasant textures and basic flavors are lost. But more than the taste, a significant amount of history will be forgotten. All the work on the part of a farmer, all the trials and desires for a cheese based on love and respect, will have been for nothing.

There is no question about the delight that comes from a rich slice of ripe Camembert. It is more than a cheese that finishes a meal, it is a cheese that creates a meal. The odors of clean cream, the delicate taste of earth and that loose texture that covers the palate in a symphony of pleasures. And to think it could all become distant memories. While the pasteurized versions of this cheese is still enjoyable, their is no comparison to that of the raw.

The laws on raw milk cheeses need to loosen before they tighten. People's idea of cheddar should not be of a square block of neon colored rubber. Blue cheese should not be the moldy saw dust found at salad bars nation wide. Pasteurization has been created in order to make food items "safe", but that doesn't always mean good. By destroying the essence of what makes up the ingredients, all that is left is a bland product that happens to be edible.

Although the outcome of this predicament won't necessarily make a difference within the states(raw milk cheeses younger than 60 days are not allowed for retail in America), but in France where the traditions of cheese making are highly regarded, a significant change could be in the works. If Camembert, one of the most well known and tasty of all French cheeses, buckles to the weight of pasteurization, what could be next? How far will this go? When will it end?

Profit should never be the main concern when producing.

Paris as seen from the bistro.

Paris. A place where dreams are made and inspiration is ever present to those needing it. Paris truly is a place of immense splendor with endless options towards any direction one may be going. Especially if the destination one seeks is regarding anything related to food. The dense amount of restaurants can be intimidating in size. From world renowned restaurants to the local brasseries, the bistros of old and the hip bars of new, Eating in Paris can be just as easy as following your nose.

By trusting instinct and following advice from prestigious guides, there are plenty of options to choose from. While hoping to eat at a good range of places that make up the current food scene of Paris, I have separated the meals according to their style. The bistros of Paris. Where waiters hardly wait, busers move plates with assertive energy, and chefs clap hands and yell in typical fashion. This is where people watching is just as much part of dinner as the bread. Wine is cheeper than water and no one goes home without having a meat of some sort. Finding foie gras is easer than finding a dressing-less salad. This food is the type that connects with all who appreciate good cooking. The lifestyle within a bistro is welcoming, timeless and distinct, a place that always has a seat with your name on it, you just might need to brush off the cigarette butts to sit...
Going straight for the basics by way of a dish that is a true representation of French cooking: Duck Confit.

Crispy skin, tender flesh and a strong flavoring of salt. The confit done in beautiful form with a savory side of duck-fat roasted potatoes, this is nothing new but everything it should be. With a full glass of red wine and the looming figure of a smoking waiter, this was a true welcome to the city of Paris.

Hoping to stay as close to the essence of the typical bistro dishes as I could, the classic escargots could not be passed up. These snails were served outside of their shells but still cooked in the shallow concave dish with herb butter. Like scallops from the rain-forest, escargot are slightly chewy but never rubbery, and the herb butter gives a luxurious fresh quality.

America may be known for it beef consumption, but the French also have a desire for a nice grilled piece of red meat. The serving size is much smaller in Paris. And nearly every steak is separately listed with different names. The basic "faux fillet" is a cut from the loin and is one of the most common steaks to be found. French beef has a great flavor but tends to be a bit chewy even when cooked to a desired mid-rare, but finding only this small discrepancy, the rest of the meal, with crispy 'frites' and a tremendous bernaise, sauce was spot on. There could have been so many other things to get while in France but this type of eating is one that always satisfies.

A 'rum-steak', coming from the end of the loin of a cow, was cut thinner and held a bit more flavor while being tougher than the other fillet. Soft and salty duck fat sauteed potatoes tend to be a common starch to serve withe dinner, and no complaints came from me on this decision.

In the world of French steaks, none more encompasses the flavors of Paris than that of the 'Onglet'. Being called a hanger or butcher's steak in America, because of its place in between the loin and last rib of a cow's anatomy and because many butcher's know this to be a great piece of meat and simply keep it for themselves. This 'Onglet' was worth keeping, cooked barley past rare and slathered with a sweet mass of caramelized shallots. Very tender meat that separated in easily eaten pieces with a taste as strong as any t-bone. Smooth potatoes were the starch this time and they were rich with butter and cream. A steak to slice and enjoy at any pace necessary.
Just as the food suggests, the pace of a bistro is based solely upon the comfort and satisfaction of those who dine. I saw an older woman send back a properly roasted full veal kidney, not because there was anything wrong with it, but that it wasn't exactly the way she would have usually eaten it.
From this ease of pleasure, I didn't feel the need to ever want anything more than the basics.

Frisse, lardons and a poached egg. A salad so simple, I could have made it for half the price in my own home. But it wasn't about a price value or practical reasoning, it was for an aspiration of comfort. Thick pieces of juicy pork belly and bitter greens, that were barley wilted from the heat of the pan, all covered in a light dressing of mustard, oil and vinegar. The fundamentals of this dish speak in such a loud language. Everything is bold and all so delicious, especially when the yolk is finally broken and transforms all into something so: right.

I love how the French can find a way to spark up nearly everything with a touch of animal fat. Salads are usually thought of as being low in fat and healthy, And while still being good for you, Parisian salads are hardly without calories. One bite of the lentil and preserved duck gizzard salad made the entire dieting system seem a travesty to humanity. There is something so great about organ meats...

A leek quiche, or tart as it was called, was filled with a smooth egg custard filled with delicately butter cooked young leeks. The leek was strong in flavor and came out as more of a vegetable than a simple aromatic.

Sometimes certain bistros are open all day where a simple glass of wine can quench the thirst from a full day of people watching. Its the pace of savoring a moment where the magic of Paris fully comes alive. That and the thought of pate.

In a bistro named LA REGALADE, all who dine are offered a tasting of the house made pork pate. Being handed the entire terrine with a basket of bread and a knife to slice out the desired amount, self control suddenly becomes nonexistent. Magnificent and good for the heart.

Following the pate was a selection of off the 'menu de-jour': boudin noir. Being made with a touch of creativity, the sausage was cut into small pieces and placed into the bottom of a hot pan. A creamy potato 'puree' was laid atop and in-between, cooking similar to how a upside-down cake is. A crispy sear is created and the entire 'cake' holds together on the plate.

Quail and foie gras is a hard thing to miss out on. Cooked to a rosy pink and covered in a sticky syrup of natural cooking juices the only thing that could have been better was a nice slab of seared foie gras. Acting like the icing on a cake, the foie was completely necessary. The bird didn't taste like some of the more generic 'supermarket' versions that are more easily found. The ingredients used were of high quality and seemed to have been sourced from a pristine location.

After previously experiencing the greatness of bone marrow, seeing it on a different menu grabbed my attention with scrumptious descriptions. These being the bones of a full grown cow, they didn't have the same richness as that of veal. They were still delightful with rock salt and toasted bread, a flavor so essential its worth risking mad cow for.

With many choices of dessert to tempt, I found it easy just sticking with the simple stuff. When ordering a chocolate mousse, I was nearly flabbergasted when my waiter brought a vessel, that could easily have held a few gallons, full of chocolate mousse. I was excited and scared at the size but everything came together when I realized they scooped out an amount to your specifics. Three small spoonfuls made up my serving, and It shouldn't have been any more. The mousse was light and ridiculously rich. As the cool cream and chocolate laid upon my tongue, I could feel the volume begin to decrease and become a lovely mixture of sheer decadence.

Ending the meal with a big bang of sugar isn't for every evening. Sometimes all it takes is a petit and subtle perking of the sweet tooth. Something like soft and buttery madeleines that were still warm from the oven and a strong espresso. Its always the little things that matter.
There are so many places to go and such a catalogue of fundamental dishes to experience. The style of the bistro is one that will never play itself out. Nothing brought in the way of innovation or stylized reinterpretations should be applied. Eating in Paris with such a level of comforted enjoyment, a timeless sense of romance is created that sparks a love for all with every bite.

Filling up in northern France.

France at last! A place where butter out weights humans, duck fat is an almost guarantee and bread is a cultural icon. The air is filled with the scent of fresh cheeses and the romantic aromas of rotisserie birds. Meat is always cut to order by men and women who handle knife as if where an appendage since birth. One of the major culinary capitals of the world, France is a place that casts a romantic spell and transforms all into lustful beasts with large appetites.

History has stomped across the grounds of Normandy many times, and never in a soft way. With miles of battle scarred land, thought provoking beaches of the d-day invasion and a sacred sight where Joan of Arch met her fiery demise, Normandy has gone through a lot. By always pushing through and finding ways to make life work, the people of Normandy have created wonderful traditions and all can be tasted within their cuisine. A place where napkins are few and wine is plentiful, food has a strong place within all that has been and will be.

A meal created from the market using local cow's milk Neufchatel cheese, spicy turnips, the quintessential baguette and a fresh slice of rabbit pate. By using less but relying on the many flavors of each item, this is a style of lunching that can rarely be beaten. The cheese in this area of France is some of the most enjoyed and lovely of all. With thick milk and wonderfully rich cream, cheese is essential for all who pass through.

Another selection from the market, half a wheel of unpasturized camembert, pork rillets and another crusty baguette. Finally enjoying these cheeses in their natural environment is like consuming the feeling of a warm embrace. Creamy, dramatic and slightly earthy with a thick texture that massages the tongue while comforting the mind with the realization that none of it had to be shared.
While cheese production is known in Normandy, the cultivation of apples is nearly as large. Enormous amounts of land is used for the strict purpose of growing apple trees. With a climate making it seem almost easy for this fruit to prosper, the apples has found its way into much of the basic food culture within Normandy.
With such a number of apples there are obviously too many to eat at one time, thus came many drinks utilizing the abundance. Cider can be found in many forms, from easy drinking types suitable for all ages to much more adult versions with added alcohol.

A typical salad with shavings of foie gras and slices of smoked duck breast. The dressing was heavy on the dijon mustard, just the needed sting to offset the rich foie and the wild tasting duck. Accompanying this was a fizzy cider having calming levels of alcohol and sweetness.

Going further with the booze and creating Calvados, a very strong and slowly sipped drink. This beef tartar was in the style of the area containing apples, and the intense calvados. Apples seemed to be slipped into anything they could. One dish being so great, it nearly called for medical assistance.

This was a braised pork shank with mushrooms and apples, served with duck-fat potatoes and it went by the name of Kako. Big chunks of apple were used in the braise, giving many of their tart and sweet flavors to the thick pork fat gravy. The serving size was absolutely colossal. Eating thought this was a test of will. The mouth wanted more and more but the stomach was screaming at not having the needed room. The meat was soft and delicious but there was enough of it to feed a series of battling vikings and being just me, I must say it was a very long evening. Getting up afterwards felt as if a hiking sack was within my belly. The walk home was done in a series of long breaks and sleep that night was full of slow breathing and extremely strange dreams.
Normandy hasn't had the luxury of some of the other regions of France, and because of this level of poverty many dishes were created using the only things that were available. But that doesn't always mean it is tasty.

(The descriptions of this next dish are not some to read before eating.)
I usually really like tripe. The Vietnamese Pho noodle bowls sometimes offer it and it is quite a common panino filling within the streets of Florence. For the city of Caen in Normandy, it is a thick stew of flavored by apples and contrasted by the use of potatoes. And it is utterly disgusting. This was a version of tripe that really felt just like what one would think a cow's stomach lining would taste like. Smelling of bile and horrid organs, the stench could not me masked. Gooey and slimy with a thick phlegm like texture that didn't really chew all that well. Eating this was like eating pond scum with salt. The 'rhino cage at the zoo' aromas never diluted and after a few bites everything I touched seemed to contain the miasma of decay. I could slightly understand why this would have been created out of struggling times, but to serve this now is just simply ridiculous. A bowl of smelly guts hardly sounds like a nice meal worth savoring.
It was a shame to end my stay in Normandy with such a night of gagging and frowning but that moment didn't detract from all the other wonders that were found and tried. A nice part the country where culinary history runs thicker than the ooze of a open camembert, and (mostly) as delicious.

A tasty case of the 'munchies' in Amsterdam

I think it is such a shame that fellow people within my generation only know Amsterdam as the place where a certain 'herb' is legal for purchase. The 'coffee shop' lifestyle of the city is easily found but it isn't one that rules over anything more than an internet cafe back in the states. What is done in Amsterdam regarding the burning of particular plants is very miniscule in comparison to the other beauties of this city within the Netherlands.

With canals having near the amount of area as that of the streets, walking within Amsterdam is a pleasant one of bridges and waterways. The humidity level is thin but not without notice. The mornings are cool but quickly brighten up into heat filled days that make one gravitate towards the ubiquitous warm weather treat.

Arriving mid-day and stumbling upon a delightful pasty shop named Lanskroon, ice cream and sweets suddenly became a high priority on the agenda. Grabbing a scoop of some of the best pistachao ice cream outside of Sicily and a tasty chocolate filled turnover (that resembled a cookie more than a doughy French style pastry). The nutty addition of musli was crunchy and unexpected.

I returned to Lanskroon many times during my stay. Their butter croissants were better than many in Paris, having that crisp edge that I so enjoy. A typical item of Holland the "Stroopwafel" is a crunchy butter and sugar filled cookie that has many fillings, this being the fig version. Quite delicious at 8:30 in the morning.

The croissants were too great to pass up, this time going with the cinn sugar coated variation. Just as flaky as the regular only with that added level of sweetness and spice. A blueberry filled pastry (same dough as the chocolate as on day one), that was pleasingly low in overall sweetness. Sugar is always a nice way to start the day, and cheese is even better to progress it.

Being the land of Gouda, it would be a major misstep to not experience the crystal qualities of these fantastic cheeses. A pork and beef 'meatball' (as it was described) sandwich with fresh fried frites and some 2 year old Reypenaer-Boerenkaas Gouda. Many people who eat their frites in this fashion always go for the mayo condiment, instead I opted for the nutty sweet flavors of the shaved cheese to melt atop the warm frites. Quite delicious.
Another lunch time was also devoted to cheese, this time a composed plate of seasonal wonders in a lovely little place named: KEF'S

A cheese shop that also provides some small tables where a few lucky customers can have an arranged plate of professionally chosen cheeses. With bread, paired wines and a grateful owner who transformed this little lunch into a happy conversation of all things related to the world of cheese. The selections were a combination of local and French items.
1. Bouton d'oc (Holland, goat)
2. Machedoux (French, goat)
3. Sainte Maure Touraine (French, goat)
4. Emmental (Swiss, cow)
5. Remeher (Holland, cow)
6. Boereu Goudse Apleghaas (Holland, cow)
7. Bleu de Wolvega (Holland, cow)
Some like the Bouton and the Wolvega were said to be very rare, even within Holland. All were enjoyable and none seemed out of place. The fresh flavors of the starting goat's cheeses, the Touraine being a marvelous unpasturized version, the palate cleansing addition of the simple Emmental mid course and the sharp Goudas ending with a tame blue.
The little places like this are the ones that connect with me the most. Everything was so clear and basic, the cheeses were sliced, described and served by the same person, all within the basement of the store. A beautiful thing that so rarely gets to happen.
While the afternoons of cheese and frites came winding into evening, some local fare was to be had in two very different ways.
Dinner at the multi-leveled Greetje was a glimpse into the past of Amsterdam's culinary history. Using the local traditions and specific recipies, Greetje is as much a representaion of Holland as the windmill. The menu held items of strange origin but what got my attention more than anything was the accompaniments with bread.

The bread was studded with seeds and the butter was everything it should be but the second dish really stood out. It was smooth like butter but had an extremely savory quality of salt and animal. Tasting it brought images of prosciutto and pork belly. I asked and was informed that the spread was a combination of cooked onions, ground apples, spices and rendered pork fat. While butter used to be quite expensive, and lard being prevalent, the creative force of some intrigued cook created a highly addictive condiment that could easily overtake the focus from the main course.

A fantastic combination of sea and earth by way of a sea ray and duck liver terrine. Rich and highly addictive, the natural salt qualities of the firm ray balanced the dynamic depth of creamy livers. A sweet streak of beet 'oil' and a light salad of greens and herbs, accented the established terrine and gave a nice contrast to the big flavors.

Roasted filet of local lamb, potato gratin and 'lams ears' was basic but not without interest. The lams ears was a slick textured sea vegetable that could be compared to certain types of nori. A cheese named Frisian clove was used in the gratin, very close to an appenzeller, and there was a prodominate sweet aroma that come from the 'gravy' of braised garlic. Nothing to shout about but nothing to dissapoint.

Dessert was quite a gamble. The flavor of licoriche is one that I still am very particular with. I greatly dislike the polished boot smell of the black tar tenticles that so many love to stick up their teeth with. Hoping to try new things and come away delighted, I went for the series of cream desserts all flavored by licorice. Rather than the usual aromas of cheep sandals that I associate with licorice, these were cleansing and bright. The creme brulee was chilled and masterfully flavored with the natural licorice bark. The ice cream had a solid interior but because of it's shape each spoonful scraped off a new layer allowing the interior to become exposed and thus raise in temperature. Flavors that are usually unwanted were enjoyed to the fullest extent.
If my meal at Greetje was a glimpse into the old authentic ways of Amsterdam, my next outing was just as much as a focus on the region but in a much more updated way.
Rather than creating food using recipes of old, the constantly changing Marius utilizes the current findings from within the markets of Amsterdam. Marius upholds a strict selection of seasonal driven produce and farmer friendly meats. While the plates may take influences from other European countries, the area within Holland is felt and tasted thought the quality ingredients.

Olives, salami and bread welcome all to tables with checkered table cloths and a small dining full of warmth. The kitchen is run by a single head chef named Kees Elfring, who got his start over the burners within the institutional restaurant: Chez Painsse. By using a style greatly similar to the Berkley landmark, each diner is served the same progression of dishes that are created specifically for that day. With the amount of food being given, it is amazing knowing that it all comes from the hands of a single and passionate chef.

The style is one of simplified ease where nothing comes off as being anything but well prepared. Bringing many Mediterranean flavors together in a dish of rare tuna, artichokes, concassed tomatoes, grilled eggplant and blobs of strong garlic flavored aioli. Even though the season was early, the tomatoes were succulent and the eggplant had a creamy quality not usually expereinced out side of a late July day.

A light Italian based seafood risotto that thankfully contained no cheese. Distinct like the breeze of salty sea air and just as enjoyable. The aborio kernal of rice was used and gave the desired level of loose textured 'all'onda' structure. Continuing on the theme of sea flavors, the sea vegetable (just like that of Greetje) 'lamb ear' added a murky flavor of deep ocean origin. A one side seared filet of monkfish brought focus and freshness across the rice.

Roasted filet of tender veal given strength though a combinding force of fava beans and chantrelle mushrooms. The double hit of reduction sauce and pesto, spooned over in such an artistic fashion, perked up the palate with sharp herbs and smooth stock. Satisfying and yet so very basic.

Nothing short of what mama would have made, a delightfully moist slice of cake, sweet berry compote and freshly churned vanilla ice cream. The dessert just like the rest of the meal was a guidence though the diverse range of local flavors from the homey cooking of Kees Elfring. Going to the market everyday, prep-ing nearly all the meals and some times wasing dishes, Kees Elfring has created a place of simple cooking from a ruling of complicated up-keeping. Earning the title of chef though a restaurant of personal touches, Marius makes food of the moment while never breaking away form the level of commitment for honest cooking.
Amsterdam really surprised me. I went into the city knowing very little, and I happy to leave with an idea of just how much the city offers. Outside of the misinterpreted image of easy mindalteration, Amsterdam has a portion of history to be seen and tasted.