A cheese filled finale in RIOJA, Denver.
The last course of the meal. Many memories are established during this period of any feast. This is the last flavor that is to be experienced, and hopefully it will be enticing. Dessert is a thought that can usually fill the mind even before the appetizers are ordered. It is a time for a chef to showcase other capabilities unseen anywhere else during the meal. The sweets are valued and desired, but there is a very precise line to how much is needed. A small bit of chocolate can create and urge for so many more, but one too many easily festers into a coma of disgust. That is just one possibility of the end note to a meal. Sometimes just a nice pour of thick port is needed, or a freshly spun serving of delectable sorbet. The options for how to conclude a food oriented evening are many. Rather than sweet, nothing booze related and certainly not chilled, the cheese plate is one amazing way to complete a night of wonderful tastes.
Cheese isn't usually taken as a post-dinner option in most of America's restaurants. As much love as the diners of the U.S.A. have for the 'fromage', it is mostly kept as a small plate or as an assisting flavor to another protein. Taking the European approach to after dinner eats, cheese is as appropriate as that sweet creme brulee or dense chocolate fudge.
Within Denver, there are many restaurants that understand this way of cheese consumption. The now classic Larimer square restaurant: Rioja is one that takes the extra step and fully embraces the cheese plate as a standard part of their seasonally changing menu.
During a recent dinner, the moment a menu was opened atop the table cloth, my mind was racing with anticipation for the selections of milky fermentations.
Beginning with the most savory of the four, Pecorino Nero di Pienza. A very meaty flavored sheep's milk cheese from Italy. All of the typical elements of the Italian Pecorinos are apparent, nutty and sharp, with a deep grass quality that lingers long after the initial taste. The paring with spicy pepperoncini and fatty salami was delicious in theory, but this particular example failed to meet the level or unity I had hoped for. The fault, I felt, was of that of the salami. Each bite was very bitter and much too strong, leaving a taste of unpleasant battery acid. The spice was interesting at first and as fully flavored that the cheese was, many of the lighter layers were lost. Sipping water and eating random bits of left over bread, I dove back in, this time pushing the pork and rusty metal compote aside, finally being able to taste the full glory of this Tuscan beauty.
Selles Sur Cher with ruby red grapefruit marmalade
Moving along, I decided to taste the goat cheese. Selles Sur Cher, one of a few famous ash covered goat cheeses hailing from the Loire Valley in North central France. The cheeses had sharp flavors of bittersweet fruits and citrus with a semi dry texture that smoothed out nicely on the palate. As the cheese arrived I saw how the rind was beginning to pull away from the center, a very good thing that made me immediately lick my lips. The grapefruit marmalade on it's own was wonderful, tasting unmistakably of the original fruit with just the right amount of sugar to mask the natural bitterness. I'm always amazed at the unity citrus can have with certain cheeses. There is a very small window of success between the two, but when it does happen (such as this plate), the flavors work in an amazing way. The contrasts among the flavors made this paring a surprise with every bite.
Munster with caraway scented fennel and pear
The authentic Munster from Northern France, strong, smelly and unlike anything that comes from the usual deli counter. This washed rind cheese is pungent with a slightly beefy smell that influences the interior when ripe. Thinly shaved ribbons of fresh fennel brought a pleasing aromatic lightness to the deep flavors, while the caraway and pear opened up some of the more acidic elements that brought to mind radishes and root vegetables. The strength of this cheese and it's slightly dense texture were elegantly displayed with thought and appeal.
Crozier blue with black mission figs and 8 brix verjus
Ending, in the nicest possible way, with the unforgettable Crozier Blue cheese. Crozier is a semi-crumbly sheep's milk cheese hand made in south-central Ireland. With an amazing addicting flavor of tart and sweet milk, soft spices and pleasing salt levels, Crozier seems only natural to be served after dinner. Utilizing the stronger, and sweeter, characteristics of the cheese, Crozier was served quite simply with drops of a deeply developed verjus and raw slices of sensual mission figs. The verjus gave a concentrated flavor of tart grapes that never felt out of place with the strong blue cheese. Utilizing the irreplaceable qualities of fresh figs, and allowing their uncooked essence to remain untainted, was just the right flavor to bring out the firm salt within the Crozier. A plate of delicious simplicity that combined tastes in blissful harmony.
At Rioja, the initiative taken by the chefs made each plate one of drastic and dynamic amalgamations . Rather than relying on the typical accompaniments of dried fruit and scattered nuts, every cheese was paired with it's own condiment that reflects particular flavors and unique characteristics. The disappointments throughout the evening were few (service, the salami, the parmesan lavosh crackers) and easily forgotten when compared to all of the other successes. By using some intriguing combinations and serving beautiful cheese at the proper temperature, Rioja has created a great ending moment to the meal that made the rest of the evening a content series of reflection.
Cheese isn't usually taken as a post-dinner option in most of America's restaurants. As much love as the diners of the U.S.A. have for the 'fromage', it is mostly kept as a small plate or as an assisting flavor to another protein. Taking the European approach to after dinner eats, cheese is as appropriate as that sweet creme brulee or dense chocolate fudge.
Within Denver, there are many restaurants that understand this way of cheese consumption. The now classic Larimer square restaurant: Rioja is one that takes the extra step and fully embraces the cheese plate as a standard part of their seasonally changing menu.
During a recent dinner, the moment a menu was opened atop the table cloth, my mind was racing with anticipation for the selections of milky fermentations.
Beginning with the most savory of the four, Pecorino Nero di Pienza. A very meaty flavored sheep's milk cheese from Italy. All of the typical elements of the Italian Pecorinos are apparent, nutty and sharp, with a deep grass quality that lingers long after the initial taste. The paring with spicy pepperoncini and fatty salami was delicious in theory, but this particular example failed to meet the level or unity I had hoped for. The fault, I felt, was of that of the salami. Each bite was very bitter and much too strong, leaving a taste of unpleasant battery acid. The spice was interesting at first and as fully flavored that the cheese was, many of the lighter layers were lost. Sipping water and eating random bits of left over bread, I dove back in, this time pushing the pork and rusty metal compote aside, finally being able to taste the full glory of this Tuscan beauty.
Selles Sur Cher with ruby red grapefruit marmalade
Moving along, I decided to taste the goat cheese. Selles Sur Cher, one of a few famous ash covered goat cheeses hailing from the Loire Valley in North central France. The cheeses had sharp flavors of bittersweet fruits and citrus with a semi dry texture that smoothed out nicely on the palate. As the cheese arrived I saw how the rind was beginning to pull away from the center, a very good thing that made me immediately lick my lips. The grapefruit marmalade on it's own was wonderful, tasting unmistakably of the original fruit with just the right amount of sugar to mask the natural bitterness. I'm always amazed at the unity citrus can have with certain cheeses. There is a very small window of success between the two, but when it does happen (such as this plate), the flavors work in an amazing way. The contrasts among the flavors made this paring a surprise with every bite.
Munster with caraway scented fennel and pear
The authentic Munster from Northern France, strong, smelly and unlike anything that comes from the usual deli counter. This washed rind cheese is pungent with a slightly beefy smell that influences the interior when ripe. Thinly shaved ribbons of fresh fennel brought a pleasing aromatic lightness to the deep flavors, while the caraway and pear opened up some of the more acidic elements that brought to mind radishes and root vegetables. The strength of this cheese and it's slightly dense texture were elegantly displayed with thought and appeal.
Crozier blue with black mission figs and 8 brix verjus
Ending, in the nicest possible way, with the unforgettable Crozier Blue cheese. Crozier is a semi-crumbly sheep's milk cheese hand made in south-central Ireland. With an amazing addicting flavor of tart and sweet milk, soft spices and pleasing salt levels, Crozier seems only natural to be served after dinner. Utilizing the stronger, and sweeter, characteristics of the cheese, Crozier was served quite simply with drops of a deeply developed verjus and raw slices of sensual mission figs. The verjus gave a concentrated flavor of tart grapes that never felt out of place with the strong blue cheese. Utilizing the irreplaceable qualities of fresh figs, and allowing their uncooked essence to remain untainted, was just the right flavor to bring out the firm salt within the Crozier. A plate of delicious simplicity that combined tastes in blissful harmony.
At Rioja, the initiative taken by the chefs made each plate one of drastic and dynamic amalgamations . Rather than relying on the typical accompaniments of dried fruit and scattered nuts, every cheese was paired with it's own condiment that reflects particular flavors and unique characteristics. The disappointments throughout the evening were few (service, the salami, the parmesan lavosh crackers) and easily forgotten when compared to all of the other successes. By using some intriguing combinations and serving beautiful cheese at the proper temperature, Rioja has created a great ending moment to the meal that made the rest of the evening a content series of reflection.
posted by Bard at 7:50 AM
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